Type: Trad, Alpine, 700 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,145 total · 64/month
Shared By: Bill Duncan on Sep 5, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


This is the nice north ridge of Mt. Alice that connects to the Chiefshead saddle. It narrows briefly to a thin neck before opening up to the north face. Gillett's High Peaks guide says "it is this exposed and exciting constriction that gives the route its name and flavor." While there is indeed an exposed constriction, it is very brief. The general position of the route, however, is remarkable in that it provides excellent views from The Divide to Chiefshead, McHenry's, Powell, Stone Man Pass, Pagoda, Long's, Meeker, the Aiguille de Fleur, Pilot Mtn., Tanima Peak, the Cleaver, Isolation Peak, and Copeland Mtn.

For extra fun, grab the summit of Pilot Mtn. on the descent (5.4).


The easiest approach begins at the Wild Basin trailhead and heads to Lion Lakes. Tip: just before you reach the bridge crossing the creek at the base of the Calypso Cascades, there is a right turn one can take that shaves 1 mile or so off of the approach. The sign only suggests access to backcountry campsites, but the trail actually follows the creek all the way up to reconnect with the main trail to Thunder Lake and the Lion Lakes.

From Lion Lake #1, head up the obvious ridge to The Divide. See the topo.