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Butter Side Down

5.11b, Sport, 30 ft,  Avg: 2.8 from 15 votes
FA: Josh Pierce
Texas > Austin Area > Reimers Ranch > Dr. Seuss / Prototype…


This is a good route that starts with rounded hold up a vertical face until you can gain the obvious arching flake/undercling feature. From here some longer moves surmount the steep panel above followed by a couple of shelfs to get up to the anchor.


Second route left of Eight Flake, the first is very close. Also the middle route of 3 on this small section of wall. Climbs through the obvious undercling flake halfway up the wall.


5 bolts to a bolted anchor. This route appears to have originally had 3 bolts and had bolts added below and above the middle one. I clipped the first 2 and last 2 skipping the older one in the middle.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

LeeAB Brinckerhoff
Austin, TX
[Hide Comment] At this time the anchor bolts just have quick-links on them which, if you thread both to clean and lower will horribly kink your rope. It would be nice to get a second link on each bolt, some chain (an odd number of links, 5 or 7) on each or some fixed biners to make using both bolts more reasonable. Sep 5, 2013