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Routes in Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall

Bisector S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blowing Smoke at the Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bolt Talk S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bongo Fury S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Butter Side Down S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Clone Call S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Demasiadas Cervezas S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eight Flake S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flinch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Grinch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Her Majesty's Secret Tranverse S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Horton Here's a Tufa S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mas Cerveza S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Prototype S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
ReKleiner, The S,TR 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rolling out the Red Carpet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Smitten Psychopath S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Socks On Chicks S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Star Belly Sneeches S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sugar S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
There's a Wocket in my Pocket S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thing 1 Thing 2 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnatural S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yertle the Turtle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Josh Pierce
Page Views: 320 total, 6/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Sep 4, 2013
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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Description

This is a good route that starts with rounded hold up a vertical face until you can gain the obvious arching flake/undercling feature. From here some longer moves surmount the steep panel above followed by a couple of shelfs to get up to the anchor.

Location

Second route left of Eight Flake, the first is very close. Also the middle route of 3 on this small section of wall. Climbs through the obvious undercling flake halfway up the wall.

Protection

5 bolts to a bolted anchor. This route appears to have originally had 3 bolts and had bolts added below and above the middle one. I clipped the first 2 and last 2 skipping the older one in the middle.

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LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
At this time the anchor bolts just have quick-links on them which, if you thread both to clean and lower will horribly kink your rope. It would be nice to get a second link on each bolt, some chain (an odd number of links, 5 or 7) on each or some fixed biners to make using both bolts more reasonable. Sep 5, 2013