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Holy Grail

5.6, Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 1.8 from 6 votes
FA: Hickey, Cook, Ardesch
California > Sequoia & Kings… > Moro Rock (SEKI) > W Face
Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures Details

Description

A fun moderate route with most of the climbing being around 5.5-5.6.

Use the newer rap route to access this climb, because the rap route takes you right down the climb to the start at the bottom of the crack system, by the large boulder with the rap bolts on it. Three double-roped rappels take you to the large boulder that marks the start of the route. built an anchor at the base of the route, to belay from.

Pitch one: Step out right and climb up the slab and cracks to a 2' ledge with an old bolt and a crack that takes small gear. 95' 5.6

The second pitch follows an easy crack system to a large pine tree on a ledge, move right onto the ledge, belay here. 5.5 110'

The third pitch begins in the middle of the ledge, veer up and left to stay on route. Continue up the ramp past a left leaning finger crack, continue past the alcove and up the right-facing dihedral. You'll pass an old two-bolt anchor clip this as a directional and head left and up, to a ledge with a gear belay 160' 5.7

Follow the easy dihedral and slab to the top. The route ends at the 4th class slab before the stairs. Belay off of the first rap bolts on top of the slab. Low 5th ,160'

Location

The route starts just above the thin ledge toward the left side of Zocalo ledge. when approaching from the stairs, walk until the view opens up west (towards the valley) then hop over the rocks that act as a boundary for the stairs. look for new rap bolts to the left (when facing west) as you come out on the slab. Rap straight down the slab,. Three double-roped raps take you to the base of the route.

Protection

From Nuts to 4"
Two 60m ropes

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The upper pitches as seen from the stairs. You follow the corner.
[Hide Photo] The upper pitches as seen from the stairs. You follow the corner.