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Routes in The Watchtower

Hoppy's Favorite WI4
Moonage Daydream T WI4 M4-5
Timex Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tokopah Falls WI4
Type: Ice, Alpine, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Amos Clifford and Steve Tucker, early 80's (?)
Page Views: 547 total, 11/month
Shared By: Mike Stearns on Sep 3, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Always check road conditions and peregrine closures Details

Description

Pitch 1: Approach slab, we found it thin, but low angle.
Pitch 2: Climb up a stepped gully and belay in an overhang right of the route. Te steps are the physical crux of P1, getting to the belay was the mental crux. WI3+
Pitch 3: Steep attached pillar that eases the higher you go. WI4

Bail from the top of P3 via v-threads, or:

Pitch 4–?: Run up the upper slabs as far as you would like to go. We topped out the entire ridge and then slogged back to the trail.

Location

Down canyon (west) from Moonage, on the right (north) side of the canyon as you approach.

Protection

Some short screws are probably a good idea for the lower pitch.

Enough v-thread material to get down.

Photos

Mike Stearns  
 
Amos, thanks for the information and awesome story! Mar 18, 2015
Possibly the FA was by me (Amos Clifford) and Steve Tucker, sometime in the early 80s. Steve named the route. He led the hard parts (as usual when he and I climbed together). I had a conversation once with Dwight Kroll about this; he had climbed it via the pillar that sometimes forms on the left, and it's possible that his ascent was earlier than ours. His was also probably a more difficult line, although when Steve and I did it the ice was very thin and brittle and breaking apart behind the curtain at the base of the third pitch. On another occasion I went to climb it during a wet snowstorm and got hosed pretty hard by a small wet snow avalanche sloughing out of the bowl above. I was leading the second pitch and a bit run out, but managed to hug the ice and not get swept away. After the avalanche I continued climbing, but was narrowly missed by another one about 10 minutes later. After that my partner (his first time ice climbing) and I decided it was a better day for skiing. Mar 18, 2015
Hoppy's comes into view after about 20-30 min of walking up the trail towards the Watchtower. The beta photo was taken from the trail facing right (south). Dec 6, 2013
Scott O
California
Scott O   California
How far down canyon? Nov 9, 2013
Mike Stearns  
 
Thanks, I amended the description. Sep 3, 2013
limpingcrab
Visalia, CA
limpingcrab   Visalia, CA
Cool, thanks for adding this! Just so nobody gets confused, it's on the right (south) side of the canyon. Sep 3, 2013