Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Pete Biven (1955)
Page Views: 34 total · 1/month
Shared By: farkas.time on Sep 2, 2013
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

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Description

A bouldery start leads to jams and jugs in right trending crack up to a slopey, 10-foot long hand traverse. Exit right to early.

The wall is slightly overhung, deceptively sustained thus pumpy, and a sandbag at 5.10b. Protection is very good, but make sure to protect the follower for the traverse, or they could take an uncomfortable swing.

Location

Start 5 feet right the arete, just around the corner from Moyer's Buttress in a right-trending flake/crack system. The line is obvious. Climb through ferns to the top, then around the buttress to the left to get down.

Protection

Gear to 4" and couple long draws for the traverse. Take a #4 Camelot and some small stuff for an anchor just at the finish.

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Biven Crack (5.10b/c), excluding start. Route trends right to hand traverse, visible just to the right of the tree.
Biven Crack (5.10b/c), excluding start. Route t…
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