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> Moyer's Buttress
Biven's Crack [Edit]
5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2 from 1
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft |
| FA: | Pete Biven (1955) |
| Page Views: | 29 total · 1/month |
| Shared By: | farkas.time on Sep 2, 2013 |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Euan Cameron |
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Description [Edit]
A bouldery start leads to jams and jugs in right trending crack up to a slopey, 10-foot long hand traverse. Exit right to early.
The wall is slightly overhung, deceptively sustained thus pumpy, and a sandbag at 5.10b. Protection is very good, but make sure to protect the follower for the traverse, or they could take an uncomfortable swing.
The wall is slightly overhung, deceptively sustained thus pumpy, and a sandbag at 5.10b. Protection is very good, but make sure to protect the follower for the traverse, or they could take an uncomfortable swing.
Location [Edit]
Start 5 feet right the arete, just around the corner from Moyer's Buttress in a right-trending flake/crack system. The line is obvious. Climb through ferns to the top, then around the buttress to the left to get down.
Protection [Edit]
Gear to 4" and couple long draws for the traverse. Take a #4 Camelot and some small stuff for an anchor just at the finish.
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