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Routes in Moyer's Buttress

Biven's Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Pete Biven (1955)
Page Views: 29 total · 1/month
Shared By: farkas.time on Sep 2, 2013
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

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Description [Edit]

A bouldery start leads to jams and jugs in right trending crack up to a slopey, 10-foot long hand traverse. Exit right to early.

The wall is slightly overhung, deceptively sustained thus pumpy, and a sandbag at 5.10b. Protection is very good, but make sure to protect the follower for the traverse, or they could take an uncomfortable swing.

Location [Edit]

Start 5 feet right the arete, just around the corner from Moyer's Buttress in a right-trending flake/crack system. The line is obvious. Climb through ferns to the top, then around the buttress to the left to get down.

Protection [Edit]

Gear to 4" and couple long draws for the traverse. Take a #4 Camelot and some small stuff for an anchor just at the finish.

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