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Routes in Mural Wall

Anguish and Fear S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Block Party S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bobbit Effect, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Coldcocked S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
DeMartini S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Far Sky, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
John Cruiser Meloncrimp S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Johnny's Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Killer Queen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Los Pepes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ludlow's Massacre S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
M&M S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Magnum Gropus S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Marching Out S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mogwai S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Monet S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Montage S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Morpheus S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Morrocan Roll S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mosaic S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mother of Invention S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Motif S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mural, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Peace Yo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pi S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pretty Fastidium S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Protect the King S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Purple People Eaters S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Red Hot Chili Powder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Soldier Without Faith S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stalking Fred S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Transition Protocol S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 583 total · 9/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Sep 1, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Aptly named, this route busts right from Block Party and climbs through the powdery, sandy red band of rock to better rock and the anchor.

Climb past the first two bolts of Block Party to a stance on top of the giant, detached flake. Get into the sandy, red rock and search around for the holds for two more bolts passing through the crux in the process. More sustained climbing on, thankfully, better rock takes you past two more bolts to the anchor.

Location

It has a shared start with Block Party but goes right after the first two bolts.

Protection

6 bolts (first two bolts are shared with Block Party) to a two-bolt anchor with rings.

Photos

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slim

  5.10b PG13
slim    
  5.10b PG13
I don't think this is a MJM route, he generally bolts routes so that a leader breaking into the grade is unlikely to get hurt. This route is definitely not bolted that way.

I climbed this route a couple years ago, and I have to say it is definitely among the very worst routes at Shelf. The climbing is kind of lame, the rock quality is very poor, and the bolting is terrible.

The worst part is the first few bolts above the nasty flake. The rock quality is very poor and one or more of the bolts should have been lower, so that you can clip off of the best stance and the best quality rock. Instead, you are forced to clip off holds that will probably break at some point. The bolts are far enough apart here that you will hit the flake if this happens.

Yo be honest with you, if I put up a route and it turned out this bad, I would have immediately murdered it with a crowbar. Sep 3, 2013
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
I believe this is a Bob D' route.... Sep 3, 2013
slim

  5.10b PG13
slim    
  5.10b PG13
I don't think it is a Bob D. route, I don't think he would have bolted it like this. I suspect that the person who bolted this hasn't bolted many routes. It is really bad. Sep 3, 2013
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
I'm pretty sure he put this in the spring he was working on his new book, but I guess I could be mistaken.... Sep 3, 2013
slim

  5.10b PG13
slim    
  5.10b PG13
Man, I would be pretty shocked if it was a Bob D. route. Totally not his style of bolting.

The day I did it, several parties had tried it and all bailed off of one of their draws. At the end of the day, they asked if I could do it and set up a TR for them so they could get their draw back. I figured no problem, it's only 10b. I thought it was really sketchy. There was one clip in particular that if the hold broke, which seemed fairly probable, I would have been ordering a new wheelchair. I tried to climb past it to a better clipping hold, but it seemed like it only got worse. Sep 3, 2013
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10b
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10b
Thanks for the comments, fellas. I was a bit gripped on this, and that's unusual for me on Shelf 5.10s. I certainly do blame the rock quality for my over-gripping/cautious-gripping. My guess is the bolts are where they are because the rock is so dubious there aren't any other viable placements. I'm curious if the neighboring route, Block Party, felt as sketchy initially, too, but has cleaned up with many more years of traffic.
As for the bolt placements, if they're placed where the best rock is, perhaps fixed chain draws on the first two bolts above the flake to allow for clipping from lower would be good. Or just avoiding the route. Sep 3, 2013
slim

  5.10b PG13
slim    
  5.10b PG13
I did block party when it was first put up. The rock quality wasn't great on it either, but I think it was generally more solid than RHCP. I think it also has more bolts. It is definitely less sketchy. I have talked to several other folks who have climbed RHCP and their impression was similar to mine. Sep 3, 2013
Rick Thompson
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Rick Thompson   Mount Nebbiolo, CO
As I was involved in the FA of Block Party and cleaned the route thoroughly, I can testify to the dusty nature of the stone on this entire wall. When we had finished doing the FA of Block Party, it was perfectly clean, but over time the dust has fallen onto the holds, making it feel somewhat insecure while leading. I have no idea about this route - Red Hot Chili Powder - or its bolt spacing, but it sounds like a mess. Jun 17, 2016
Steven Bogacz
  5.10b
Steven Bogacz  
  5.10b
The route definitely had a decent amount of dust on it, but it had a few fun sequences too. I feel like it's worth doing if you're planning on doing Block Party anyways. Oct 10, 2016

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