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Routes in Warbonnet Peak

Black Elk T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Brown Cow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Col du Ane T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Drop of a hat... T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Northeast Face, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Plume: Broken Arrow, NE Face, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Roof of Tears T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Un-named T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Weather Or Not... T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Who's On First T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
feather buttress T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
our route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C0-1 PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 987 total, 19/month
Shared By: nbrown on Sep 1, 2013
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

Start same as for Brown Cow.

P-1 Climb the low angle ramp to a stance below the splitter corner and belay.

P-2 Climb the obvious corner (left) via increasingly larger crack to some interesting moves around the large chockstones and up to a nice ledge and belay.

P-3 Climb the steep and amazing hand crack through the small roof where it turns to hands/thin hands (crux). Continue up the amazing flake to a short traverse left and a 2 bolt anchor.

Either rap or continue up numerous variations. The best one would take the upper half (pitch 6,7) of "Weather Or Not". That would make for a great link-up instead of the easy corner.

Location

Right of "Weather Or Not" and just left of "Brown Cow".

Protection

Standard rack of at least doubles from fingers to fists. Maybe a #5 too.

Photos

michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.11
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.11
The first two pitches have a fair bit of flaky, dirty, loose rock. Once established in the corner, the rock quality is good but dirty, dusty, and vegetated. From the moves below the chockstone until the top of the 3rd pitch, this route is really engaging. The rock is a bit flaky and crusty in places due to a lack of travel, but the upper pitch is really wild and high-quality. The handcrack is deceptively steep and pumpy with mostly locker jams. The 10+ handcrack is followed by a reachy moves to a diminishing hands roof. Smaller hands will make the crux moves easier. The rock quality from the upper handcrack to the top of the flake is unbeatable. The upper ledge above the chockstone alcove is the best place to belay. A 60m rope will not link the first two pitches. 2 60m raps are required to reach the ground. Nothing over a #3 is needed. Aug 18, 2015