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Routes in Mystical Mountain Zone

Advice From A Caterpillar TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Gate T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cirith Ungol T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fractured Fairy Tale T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gollum's Stairwell T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Horner's Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jack Be Nimble T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mother Goose T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Noah's Arc TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ode to a Newt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Number Nine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Over the Rainbow T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Oz Before The Wizard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sisyphus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Swords of Zanzibar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Steve Mabley and Jim Blakley
Page Views: 538 total · 9/month
Shared By: Lou Hibbard on Sep 1, 2013
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Access Issue: Private property Details


A hard start for the grade. Can cheat start to the right a few feet and cut back left on a ledge a few feet up. The direct start is the route, however. About 30 feet up, cut left on a fortuitous hand traverse, bushwack around some bushes, and follow a nice corner up and to the top.


Start about 20 feet left of Old Number Nine by two small trees with a discontinuous crack above leading to a small roof. Cut left at the roof and traverse below and around bushes. Easier to the top.


Adequate gear for leading to 3 ". Placing pro at the start will likely fill the best jams. Extra small gear. Extra slings.


Lou Hibbard
Eagan, MN
Lou Hibbard   Eagan, MN
The photo added by SeanFoster above I am fairly certain is Old Number Nine, not Sisyphus. May 25, 2015

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