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Routes in Mt. Muir

East Buttress (w/ variations) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
From the John Muir Trail T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
from trail by W + N ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 200 ft
FA: 1919 LeRoy Jeffers
Page Views: 1,517 total, 30/month
Shared By: Aaron Slaven on Aug 31, 2013
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access limited from May to October every year Details

Description

Per RJ Secor, "Climb a shallow chute of loose talus and head towards the ridge on the right, where talus blends with the rocks of the summit pinnacle. Move left and climb a chimney to its head. Traverse left across a sloping ledge, the climb a crack to the small summit."

Yup, that is excatly how it goes down.

Location

There is a rock cairn along the JMT in the gully to head off the trail. 13,780'

Protection

N/A

Photos

Ohio Bill
  3rd
Ohio Bill  
  3rd
A great little side-trip if you're doing Whitney. It was tough to find. 500 yds past the JMT junction is what the guidebook said. I thought it was awfully exposed for class 3. There are a few spots where you definitely do not want to fall.

EDIT: We were approaching from the SW. I'm told that taking a more northern approach leads to a slabby climb that is actually class 3 and not sketchy class 4 like what we did. Aug 24, 2014