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North Ridge (Renfrew Glacier)
Easy Snow,
Snow, Alpine, Grade III,
Avg: 2.3 from 18
votes
FA: unknown
Oregon
> Oregon Volcanoes
> (E) Three Siste…
> Middle Sister
Description
A good peak with a long approach. No technical climbing. Easy snow on the Renfrew Glacier.
Location
The North Ridge can be approached from the east or west side.
The Renfrew Glacier is reached from the Obsidian Limited Entry Area. Permit required.
Take the Obsidian Trail to the PCT. Turn left and you will see a climbers trail shortly after passing the Falls (5 min.). You can also walk another 10 mins. to another, better defined, climbers trail.
Follow the trail, faint in some places, to the glacier. Take the glacier up to the saddle between North and Middle Sister. Thrash up the loose scree to the top. No rock climbing. Return the way you came.
Protection
axe, crampons If freezing level is low.
![The Renfrew Glacier in July 1972. Why the rope? As newcomers to Oregon, we thought the glacier might be crevassed. It wasn't.]()
[Hide Photo] The Renfrew Glacier in July 1972. Why the rope? As newcomers to Oregon, we thought the glacier might be crevassed. It wasn't.
![Photo of Middle Sister and the Renfrew Glacier. Photo taken late August, 2013.]()
[Hide Photo] Photo of Middle Sister and the Renfrew Glacier. Photo taken late August, 2013.
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