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> Penstemon Dome
> Penstemon Dome (W Face)
No Zukes
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British R
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Penstemon Dome (West Face)
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Berry Picking T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Captain America T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crooked Neck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fools Goal S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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No Zukes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Pretend to be Your Friend S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rachel's Garden S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rope-A-Dope S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shake The Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Smiling Faces T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Song of the Earth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sunday Hoe-down T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 470 ft (142 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | McCabe, Swanson, 8/82 |
| Page Views: | 1,283 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Steve Blevins on Aug 30, 2013 |
| Admins: | Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Road closure Oct 1, 2024
Details
PG&E will be closing access to Courtright reservoir early this year. The gate will close Oct 1, 2024 and will remain closed until the spring of 2025
Description
Pitch 1: 3 possibilities. a) Direct start up easy crack to ledge below overhanging offwidth. Thrash up awkward offwidth or hump the nose. 5.10b. b) Direct start up same easy crack to ledge then traverse left at ledge and back around to crack to bolted anchors. 5.7. c) Use the 1st pitch of Captain America, work right at small ledge to same bolted anchors as above, above offwidth/nose. Recommended, 5.8, ~ 100'
Pitch 2: Work 5.7 left facing dihedral system with some off width until you can step right on to face and up to bolted anchors 170'
Pitch 3: Work up face somewhat left past 2 bolts along line of least resistance, over steepening wall. Above 2nd bolt work up and right to crack in left facing corner. Crack is good (small-medium pro) but is dirty. Above crack/corner is a stance followed by another original bolt. From bolt work up face and traverse right when small right angling dike appears, head for 2 bolt anchor not far right. Almost 60m. A few more feet right is Rope a Dope anchors for rappel (2 ropes). Spooky, run out. Cruxes are 5.9, but take some work to figure out, otherwise 5.10a. Actual bolts (1/4") but hangers are what scared me.
Pitch 2: Work 5.7 left facing dihedral system with some off width until you can step right on to face and up to bolted anchors 170'
Pitch 3: Work up face somewhat left past 2 bolts along line of least resistance, over steepening wall. Above 2nd bolt work up and right to crack in left facing corner. Crack is good (small-medium pro) but is dirty. Above crack/corner is a stance followed by another original bolt. From bolt work up face and traverse right when small right angling dike appears, head for 2 bolt anchor not far right. Almost 60m. A few more feet right is Rope a Dope anchors for rappel (2 ropes). Spooky, run out. Cruxes are 5.9, but take some work to figure out, otherwise 5.10a. Actual bolts (1/4") but hangers are what scared me.
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