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Routes in Penstemon Dome

Captain America T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Zukes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Rachel's Garden S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rope-A-Dope S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Song of the Earth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunday Hoe-down T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 470 ft, 3 pitches
FA: McCabe, Swanson, 8/82
Page Views: 552 total · 10/month
Shared By: Steve Blevins on Aug 30, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1: 3 possibilities. a) Direct start up easy crack to ledge below overhanging offwidth. Thrash up awkward offwidth or hump the nose. 5.10b. b) Direct start up same easy crack to ledge then traverse left at ledge and back around to crack to bolted anchors. 5.7. c) Use the 1st pitch of Captain America, work right at small ledge to same bolted anchors as above, above offwidth/nose. Recommended, 5.8, ~ 100'

Pitch 2: Work 5.7 left facing dihedral system with some off width until you can step right on to face and up to bolted anchors 170'

Pitch 3: Conflicting information between published sources available. Our route on 8-23-13: Work up face somewhat left past 3 bolts along line of least resistance, over steepening wall. Above 3rd bolt work up and right to crack system/arete. Crack is good (small pro) but is dirty. Above crack system/arĂȘte is a stance followed by another original bolt. From bolt work either straight up face to top out (run out and requires simul climbing) or work up face and traverse right when small right angling dike appears to Rope a Dope anchors (full 60m). Good but spooky 5.9

Location

Next corner system right of Capatain America, right of Song of the Earth.

Rappel Rope a Dope (2 60m ropes) to other obvious anchors. 4 rappels

Protection

All 3 belays have bolted anchors. Small (tcu's)to medium cams. Blue cam, probably want 2 for offwidth.

Photos

Ken H
Granite, UT
 
Ken H   Granite, UT
 
I was looking to do some crack climbing and scary slab didn't interest me so I just climbed the first two pitches of this. Warning gear beta:
1) I climbed straight up to the ledge below the offwidth, (.5 C4 before traverse) then traversed left (yellow alien during) about 15 ft, up a slab move (small nut or micro cam) onto another ledge then headed back right, popped up a wide crack (#4 C4) to another little move (#2 C4) to the bolt anchors. 5.8 (100' rap will take you down)

2) Headed into the wide crack. Their was a good amount of veg in this in two spots then you head into some real nice 5.6 climbing. Looking up you'll see your crack is ending and might question what you are doing there. As the crack end you can get some finger sized cam in. Then make a step up onto the slab 5.6 and a few slab moves 5.2 up to the anchors. We rapped from here. We had a 70m and a tagline and had to use the tagline to get down but not but that much. 150' rap Sep 4, 2015