Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: R. Bert, P. Lenz on gear 8/29/13
Page Views: 245 total · 4/month
Shared By: Peter Lenz on Aug 30, 2013 with updates from David Gutzman
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

This pitch is a traditionally protected crack/small chimney. The climbing is of fair quality, and the rock is generally solid. It protects well with traditional gear, but you can also reach left and clip bolts on an adjacent sport-climb pitch. It would thus be a very reasonable pitch for a beginning trad leader.

Too Many Chiefs

Locate the route Hin-mah-too-yah-lat-kekt (AKA Chief Joseph) as described in the UINTA ROCK guidebook. There is another line of bolts to the RIGHT of Chief Joseph (Little Chief). To the immediate RIGHT of this bolt line, there is an obvious crack. This is your climb. To the right of the crack is another bolted route which is of 5.6-5.7 difficulty.

Protection

Nuts and cams to 3 inches. You can reach leftward and clip bolts to an adjacent route if you must, but try placing your own gear instead. There are chain anchors at the top, which were placed to serve other climbs, but are perfectly situated for this one.

Photos

Little Chief actually starts in the crack, then goes left onto the face using the bolts as a sport route. 5.7
Too Many Chiefs stays in the crack as a trad route, 5.6. Just to clear up any confusion! Sep 16, 2014