Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Diamond

Ariana T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Dagger T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bright Star T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Casual Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Curving Vine T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
D1 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
D7 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
D7 Variation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dunn Westbay T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3
Eroica T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Forrest Finish T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Full Dunn-Westbay T 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Full House T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hearts and Arrows T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Honeymoon is Over, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
King of Swords T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Obelisk, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pervertical Sanctuary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yellow Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 4 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Tommy Caldwell and Joe Mills 2013
Page Views: 6,705 total, 128/month
Shared By: Tank Evans on Aug 29, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The Full Dunn-Westbay frees the original Dunn-Westbay aid line. Josh Wharton had freed about ½ the route in 2011 at 13-, avoiding the 5.14 and 5.13- crux sections of the aid line by traversing over into Gear and Clothing. The original aid line follows one perfect crack line to the summit, and the Full Dunn-Westbay free climbs this system ledge-to-ledge in 4, 80m (80m rope required!!!) rope-stretching pitches. It is the most continuous splitter route on the Diamond. No bolts were added for protection on any of the pitches. The immaculate rock, ample protection, sustained climbing, and spectacular position makes it truly one of the best multi-pitch climbs in Colorado. It is hard to believe things like this exist in the alpine.

Note: It is possible to split the crux pitch into 2 pitches by belaying (hanging) at the end of the 5.12 section on the crux pitch, it is unclear whether this changes the grade. Doing it as one mega-pitch certainly adds a mental crux. The proper route should be done ledge-to-ledge as Tommy Caldwell envisioned.

Location

Begin by climbing up the right side of the Green Pillar. Follow the splitter to the summit

Protection

80m rope! 6 slings, 18 quickdraws. Single set #0.75-#3 Camalot, doubles in tips to fingers, singles in micro, 1 set of stoppers.

Photos

0 Comments