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Routes in Rivelin Edge

Blizzard Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Croton Oil T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Groove Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jonathan's Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roof Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Allan Austin (1958)
Page Views: 23 total, 0/month
Shared By: farkas.time on Aug 26, 2013
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

A gritstone classic. Excellent, sustained climbing up a long arete in an exposed, beautiful position.

Begin with a short, rather pleasant boulder problem (V1) up a blank wall, which is the technical crux. Continue up ~10 feet with good hands, then move left and climb the arete past a small roof to a bouldery topout.

A 5.10 direct start straight up the arete from its base (left of classic start) is supposed to be good (FA Peter Stone 1998), but it looks pretty hard to me.

Location

Start 10 feet left of Jonathan's Chimney, ~50 left of the needle. Around the corner to the left, on the same buttress, are Ulex (5.7) and Gardener's Pleasure (5.7), two hand/fist cracks side-by-side. Gardener's Pleasure (on the right) has a large tree growing out of it about 3/4 of the way up.

Walk off left.

Protection

Cams to 3", medium stoppers, and a spot for the start.

Protection is fabled poor on this route. It is certainly not abundant, but is good and straightforward where it counts, resulting in no proper runouts. Doubles in mid-sized cams (Camelot .4 to 1) would avoid any problems. The RockFax infamous heart-with-wings icon is, in my opinion, not appropriate here.

Extend anchor from tree at top and belay sitting off the body.

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