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Routes in Chipmunk Perch

Four Horsemen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft, 14 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Reid Dowdle
Page Views: 1,257 total, 24/month
Shared By: Cory Harelson on Aug 26, 2013
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

This route follows the obvious east ridge of Chipmunk Perch. The ridge consists of four successively higher rock towers ("horsemen"). Start at the base of the ridge amid some trees, and pick the route that looks the most interesting. There are many possible variations, so perhaps the climb could be made easier or harder than the given rating.

At the top of the 3rd tower you will be looking down into a notch separating you from the 4th tower. At first it looks like a rappel will be needed to gain the notch, but if you look carefully there is a system of holds and ledges that allows a moderate downclimb (5.6ish).

We found the most sustained, steepest, and best quality pitches of the route by climbing directly up the 4th tower.

Although most of the underlying rock is very good, there are many loose blocks; be sure to set up belays out of the line of fire.

Location

Directly across the Saddlback Lakes from the Elephant's Perch. If you look for some trees at the base of the east ridge (the one with the 4 towers) you can't miss it.

Protection

Single rack to 3" should have you covered. With the exception of the 4th tower, most of the cruxes are short, with copious amounts of 5.fun climbing in between.

Photos

We found the decent to be extremely straightforward. Just head down the SE gully, stay skiers right, which is the obvious line when scouting from the summit. No rappels necessary.

We started the route on the N. side of the ridge near a clump of trees as described and found this to be a great spot to start.

Super fun adventure route worth doing. Sep 3, 2015
Descent is tricky route finding. Might be worth committing to rappels early if you don't know the path. Jul 20, 2015