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South Ridge

Easy 5th, Trad, Alpine, 650 ft (197 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 30 votes
FA: unknown
California > Sierra Eastside > Mammoth Lakes Area > Lake George > Crystal Crag > Other Alpine Routes

Description

Fun interesting moves on good ridge-top granite comparable to the famous ridge climbs of Tuolumne Meadows (but with a shorter easier approach). Wonderful setting in the midst of mountain lakes.

Approach: See Crystal Crag alpine / multi-pitch area
for how to get to parking and trailhead and hike up to Crystal Lake --> see overview map

Then hike about 0.25 mile / 400 meters S around the east side of Crystal Lake, which some ups and downs to reach a flat clearing. Then head cross-country SSE about 0.3 mile / 500 meters on a rising traverse to reach the col on the south side of the Crystal Crag.

Turn sharp L (N) and start scrambling up the South ridge (with moves of class 3 and some rock-hopping opportunities) about 600 ft / 200m to the first tower. (This point could also be reached by steeper climbing up the W side of the ridge - see Aretes of Crystal Crag direct )

Climb: Up (with some downs) along the narrow ridge / arete distance about 600 feet / 275m (low class 5, mostly class 3+4) to the (highest) South summit. Possibly with careful navigation, might be able to keep all the climbing moves at difficulty class 4 or less, but if descending (or retreating) the same way, some of the moves likely will feel like class 5.

In some sections it might be possible to find an easier way below the crest of the ridge on the east side (one guidebook recommends doing this higher on the route), but be careful since this could send loose rock down on the Sport climbers below.

Descent: Return the same way.

alternate Descent: From a little N of the South summit, go down the West face. One guidebook suggests going straight down a short ways, then diagonal Right (NW). We started that way, but then aimed aimed overall toward a little N of the S end of Crystal Lake ... From the crest at first straight down (steep thoughtful moves), then diagonal down + S (thoughtful moves, exposed) into a gully, and down that. In the middle section we hit a dirt track, then lots of loose rock, down to a wide ledge, where we turned SW to get down to the talus field near a large multi-trunk tree.
. One guidebook suggests that this overall section of the W face is class 3, but especially the top section (also a little at the bottom) seemed to require so much thought to find the moves in descent that it should be graded as class 4 (even if it feels like class 3 when climbing up) - or perhaps the guidebook author just knows a better easier route.

alternate Descent: Continue N along the arete, down-climbing to the notch between the South summit and the Middle Summit (low class 5). Perhaps this section can be done at class 4 if done in the upward direction, but some moves as down-climb likely will feel like class 5). From the notch, go down the West with loose rock and dirt. Mostly class 3, but likely a class 4 move will be encountered, especially near the bottom.

GPS: All latitude/longitude waypoints along with other helpful waypoints and tracks are in a GPX file linked from this page

Statistics:
Totals for approach hike + climb to S summit:
  • on Trail hiking distance 1.9 Miles / 3.1 km with vertical gain +725 ft / 225 meters.
  • Off trail hiking distance 0.8Mi/1.2km with vertical gain +500ft/155m.
  • Climbing up + traversing length 650ft/200m with vertical gain +325ft/100m.

Grand Totals for approach + climb + descent S ridge + return hike:
  • on Trail hiking distance 3.8Mi/6.2km with vertical gain +900ft/280m
  • Off trail hiking distance 1.6Mi/2.4km with vertical gain +330ft/100m
  • Climbing + traversing length 1300ft/400m
  • Climbing + traversing vertical gain +450ft/140m
  • Down-climbing + traversing vertical loss -450ft/140m
  • Total horizontal distance = 5.6 miles / 9 km
  • Total vertical gain = +1375ft/420m

For a longer harder version of this route, see Aretes of Crystal Crag direct

Protection

Rope less than 30 meters and long slings for the arete sections (possibly a selection of cams). The leader should be skillful in protecting by running the rope around different sides of rocks and horns along the arete.

Location

3-4 miles SW of the town of Mammoth Lakes --> see overview map

Getting here: see Crystal Crag alpine / multi-pitch area

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking up the ridge from the saddle, August 2016
[Hide Photo] Looking up the ridge from the saddle, August 2016
NNW up to first tower - close
[Hide Photo] NNW up to first tower - close
Looking down from the summit of crystal crag.  not the best rock for climbing but a really cool spot
[Hide Photo] Looking down from the summit of crystal crag. not the best rock for climbing but a really cool spot
East side of crag, approaching Southeast
[Hide Photo] East side of crag, approaching Southeast
Looking back to South East approach
[Hide Photo] Looking back to South East approach
Right before South Summit from South East Approach
[Hide Photo] Right before South Summit from South East Approach
Coming from TJ lake / East Face, skree/ lose rock is heavy at base and very dangerous
[Hide Photo] Coming from TJ lake / East Face, skree/ lose rock is heavy at base and very dangerous
Southeast Approach
[Hide Photo] Southeast Approach
Just before the South Summit
[Hide Photo] Just before the South Summit
N up South Ridge to first tower
[Hide Photo] N up South Ridge to first tower
N up South ridge to first tower
[Hide Photo] N up South ridge to first tower

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Preston Rhea
Mammoth Lakes
  3rd
[Hide Comment] An imposing tower along the South Ridge can be easily bypassed to climber's right (east) at loose 3rd class. Bypassing the tower keeps the whole ridge in the 3rd class range with maybe a couple slightly more exciting moves. Jul 6, 2014
[Hide Comment] Approaching from Crystal lake head up right/ South and good luck finding a trail beyond the lake, there are many - just go right and get to the south corner of the crag.

we brought our trad gear just in case and were glad we did. The climb is not hard but this crag has a tremendous amount of loose rock.

There are 3-4 summits before you get to the tallest summit of the crag, the walk off is after the 4th summit on the left, we thought to downclimb the way we came up which was a lot harder than the "walkoff" eventhough nothing looks like a walkoff on this rock, its all very loose and should be taken seriously. If you are not comfortable with high winds, loose rock, and class 4-5 climbing reconsider. We took this route to get a simple alpine climb in and werent challenged by the climb but more by the elements.

Still worth trying if you like the excitement! Aug 10, 2016
davefaus
Mammoth Lakes, CA
[Hide Comment] This is the perfect mini mountain climb that can be done in just a couple hours car to car. The imposing first tower is airy 5.6 if climbed direct Jun 29, 2017
[Hide Comment] After finishing this I have a few comments.
1. Ignore the directions listed in the description above, actually ignore the entire description, approach climb decent etc... Anyways, as you approach stay on the right (west) side of the crag, you will avoid all of the loose scree and talus.
2. This is not a rock climb. Leave the gear at home. The first "tower" is most definitely NOT 5.6, closer to low 5th or 4th class. And the rest of the ridge is 3rd probably.
3. A fun few hours if your trying to hang out and hike or run etc... But don't expect a rock climb. Oct 18, 2018
Joel Ryan
Bishop, CA
[Hide Comment] Great mini-alpine route. Easy to simul-climb running the rope creatively, slinging features, and finding natural belays. Jul 2, 2020
J Sundstrom
San Diego, CA
  4th
[Hide Comment] If following the approach listed in the description, go to the SECOND clearing after the large scree slope (skirted on the bottom). If you're suckered up a sandy wash, you're at the first clearing. Then it's a very mellow trail to the saddle.

The climb itself can be made easier by skirting difficulties to the east. Aug 30, 2020
Sean Sullivan
Fresno, CA
[Hide Comment] Agree with the comment re: ignoring this description entirely. Hike up to Crystal crag and bear RIGHT. Follow the descent trail until you are forced into rock. To me this would be the “south arete”. Mainly Bc it’s the only piece of rock facing south. I used this as my descent and it was 3rd class. Unless even the name of this route is incorrectly labeled?If the tower the author mentioned being 5.6 is the first tower with the huge chunk of Crystal than the author is certainly not talking about a south facing climb. The first tower you encounter from the south is easily climbed at 3rd class. Sep 25, 2021
Xavier Campos
Bend, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Fun, short ridge scramble that makes for a great intro outing for a beginner. Brought my wife on this as her first 'alpine' scramble and she loved it. Agree with the above comments that bypassing the first tower keeps the ridge in the class 3/occasional cl 4 move range. If you climb the first tower and stay on the ridge proper it's definitely cl 4 with a couple of low 5th moves. Jul 5, 2022
Robert S
Driftwood, TX
[Hide Comment] For the descent, head back south a bit and look for a notch. Downclimb (3rd class) into a gully, and then it's like 2nd class the rest of the way back to the trail. Oct 29, 2022
Isaac Gillman
Boston, MA
  Easy 5th
[Hide Comment] To clear up any confusion, all 5th class moves can be avoided with some meandering around (usually to the east {right} side of the ridge), but the best climbing is found directly on the crest. If you climb the first tower from the south you'll pull a few moves in the low 5th realm, but it's a short section.

Personally, I prefer to approach from TJ lake and descend the west face to crystal lake to make a more interesting loop. Jun 26, 2023
Dylan Kilby
Golden, CO
  4th
[Hide Comment] Just chiming in to echo what others have said about how you can pass slightly east on the arete if you want to keep out of the bigger moves on the ridge proper. That being said, the best rock and stablest/safest moves are going to be as close to the ridge as you feel comfortable getting. Then hitting the true summit of Crystal Crag is Sierra 4th Class.

I soloed the west face and did the variation to the north arete near the summit, then descended/downclimbed via the south ridge. Fantastic way to give yourself an awesome, varied adventure - especially as a solo alpine scramble. Sep 13, 2023