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Routes in The Isle of Man

Celtic Pride S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Glashtyn, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mann's Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Alex McIntyre, August 2013
Page Views: 427 total, 8/month
Shared By: Alex McIntyre on Aug 26, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

The Glashtyn climbs the middle-left of the downhill face of the pinnacle. Starting up the clean face, interesting movement on unique holds (including a natural 4 finger pocket and a thumb wrap crimp) leads to the break with a sloping crimp rail. Pull through the next section (formerly the crux) and stay left of the bolt line for continuous, fun movement on pinches and gastons to a 2 bolt anchor shared with Mann's Arete.

The panel after the break was the crux, involving a hard stand up into a 2 finger half-pad sidepull/undecling knob, a big reach to a blade crimp, and a long deadpoint to a slopey jug. Unfortunately, despite 6 or 7 toprope burns determining where the line goes, I apparently missed a crimp in this section, reducing a very hard and unique sequence into a boring 5.10 haul (and dropping the grade from 12+ to 12a, so I'm told). Regardless, it is still the best line on the Isle of Man to date.

Location

Middle of the downhill side of the Isle of Man.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with chains. Stick clip recommended, as there are some committing moves getting to the first bolt and the landing isn't great.

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