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Routes in Bartizan Wall

Crack of Earthly Delights T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elrod's Epic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kevizan T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Naked Rib, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Storming the Castle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Window on the West T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, 210 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Black, Pete Delannoy, John Matteson 7-3-80
Page Views: 586 total · 10/month
Shared By: Chris Hirsch on Aug 25, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Excellent corner pitch followed by a very exposed summit finish. Absolute must do! Pitch 1 (5.9 135') Climb up the steep right facing corner pulling a few strenuous laybacks early on, then fun cruiser stemming on big feet and plenty of patina jugs. Once the corner fades, traverse out left across flakes up into the saddle to find the anchors above on a separate formation. Pitch 2 (5.8R 75') Head directly up rib past one old bolt to the top. Bring small (Rp's) gear to supplement. 2nd pitch anchor needs to be replaced (as of 8-24-13). I would recommend a needles style rap.

Location

On the left side of Bartizan Wall find the huge chimney, 'Terror-Cracktyl', Earthly Delights is the obvious right facing/leaning corner 20' left of that. Best to gain belay ledge by scrambling, 4th/5th class, from the SW gully. Either rap from 1st pitch anchors (double rope rap) or walk off the back.

Protection

Single rack to 3", doubles of fingers
Nuts

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Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
I'm not sure if we went the right way, but we approached via the large gully to the south which has a huge chockstone blocking your way near the top. Climbing out the right wall of the gully seemed 5.6 and was mega-crusty with lichen.

The first pitch of the route has a really strenuous section down low with some sort of loose and heavily fractured rock. As you get further up the corner the rock gets a little better and the climbing improves. The second pitch is pretty heads-up because it doesn't seem like it gets done that much and the possibility of breaking a knob is worrisome. The anchor is a single 1/4" bolt so you'll want to simul-rap and then you need to do another pitch to gain the top of Bartizan if you plan on walking-off.

If you want a steep 5.9 corner, God's Own Drunk just across the way is a much better climb. Aug 14, 2014

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