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Pin Route

5.10a, Sport, 85 ft,  Avg: 2 from 2 votes
FA: unknown
California > Los Angeles Basin > Angeles Nationa… > Texas Canyon > The Hatchery

Description

From the a belay at a fixed angle (pin) and a bolt (semi-hanging belay) or alternately from bolts at the base of the slab, work up and right past two bolts (left, if starting from below the slab) to a cluster of large knobs. Pull over the knobs onto a steep headwall. Pull the headwall using a couple protruding knobs and pass a large block, on the right, on fine three-finger pockets. Continue climbing on amazing knobs and the occasional pocket. After the 5th bolt pass a bulge, and the angle eases for a thirty foot runout to the last bolt. Near the top trend to the right to chain anchors.

Location

Northwest buttress of the Jukebox formation in the Zona Rosa area.
From the belay, with the bolt & fixed pin, this is the line of bolts on the right.

Protection

11 bolts & anchors with screwlinks.
  • ** Two or three 12" draws would be desirable as the 3rd, 5th, and 6th bolts are situated such that the lower carabiner on short draws interacts badly with large knobs.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The north end of the Jukebox. "Diesel" climbs a line up the center of the buttress.
[Hide Photo] The north end of the Jukebox. "Diesel" climbs a line up the center of the buttress.
Nearing the last of the difficulties.
[Hide Photo] Nearing the last of the difficulties.
contemplating the crux moves.
[Hide Photo] contemplating the crux moves.
Approaching the crux. A high foot allows you to step high for a pocket.
[Hide Photo] Approaching the crux. A high foot allows you to step high for a pocket.
A trio of climbers at the base of "Unknown" (5.10a) getting setup.
[Hide Photo] A trio of climbers at the base of "Unknown" (5.10a) getting setup.
Pin Route
[Hide Photo] Pin Route

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Ten feet left of Diesel is a recent new line. I am told this was put up by the same accent team as Diesel. I played on this line four years ago. This was a super fun lead today. I enjoyed the added distance between the last three bolts. Spicy. Only bad note was the position of the massive anchor. Too far left of the last bolt. It should of been added to the right side. This current placement will force one to lower in the middle of the face,a no wheres-land. When lowering, realize, you must go the right for the solid ground. Seven bolts to the anchor. A comfortable three star 5.9. Jump on it! Oct 20, 2013