The Reclusive Buttress
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1100 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||J. Finkelstein, B. Collett, August 2013|
|Page Views:||334 total, 6/month|
|Shared By:||Ben Collett on Aug 25, 2013|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis route provides some fun mellow rockaneering in a nice setting. Expect to follow your nose a bit. The climbing all works out pretty well.
1) Scramble up to the large ramp below where the buttress steepens. Follow the ramp until at the base of a dihedral feature that cuts back right to the crest of the buttress, 300 feet, 5.5.
2) Follow the dihedral feature to the crest of the buttress. The feature steepens briefly at about 100 feet. Fear not, that section is rather juggy. Belay below a steep band, 180 feet, 5.8.
3) Travers right on ledges to the right side of the steep band. Climb a short, facey section to an intermitant crack that is followed through a small overlap to a flake and ledge system. Follow the flakes and ledges up and left to a roomy belay below a pair of dihedrals, 180 feet, 5.9 R.
4) Climb the left dihedral up to a prominent ramp system that leads up and right. Follow this and belay after 180 feet or so, before the ramp ends, 5.9.
5) Continue about 20 feet right past the end of the ramp and climb straight up a nebulous face with intermittent gear past a small roof to a ledge system below the final steep headwall, 200 feet, 5.9 R.
6) Climb up the exposed, juggy headwall to the top of the buttress, 100 feet, 5.9.