Type: Boulder, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 441 total · 7/month
Shared By: Will Barnes on Aug 24, 2013
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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So named because you probably need a little bit of the Hydrogen Psychosis to actually want to do this problem, the H.P. project is one of the more painful problems I've come across in SB (the only other problem that compares is the Static Eliminator sit but this guy feels much worse). Hydrogen Psychosis glory is guarded by two of the thinnest crimps in S.B. that'll eat through your fingers so fast you'll think you were out at the Buttermilks. Only time will tell if those crimps will survive but at the moment they seem pretty solid (definitely be careful about not climbing this one after rain though).

Crux comes right off the bat in three really difficult moves to get established on the "Eye-Socket" hole and razor gaston. From here do a couple easier but balancy moves through the sloper to gain a good edge before busting a cool sequence out right over the tree through good edges with marginal feet to eventually meet up with Deep Search. Good luck!


Just to the left the tree at the base of Bob's Ground up Boulder, sit start left hand on good jug and right on good edge.




Will Barnes
Edmonton, AB
Will Barnes   Edmonton, AB
Just to be clear I never put this problem together for the send. On my final attempt before leaving S.B. I was finally able to link the first 3 moves (which at first I thought I had no chance of doing) but unable to link into the final moves guarding the top before I had no skin left on my left hand. I doubt this one has been done because of all the loose rock I had to work through to get to what it is now but who knows. Either way someone should go do it...it's pretty rad and unique for S.B. despite the pain factor. My guess is solid V9 but only ascents will tell.

Open Project...who wants it? Aug 24, 2013
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
As of this writing, conditions are dictating attempts. To wit: it's been smoldery and hot lately, so all sandstone crimps in SB suck. This problem indeed has sharp little edges. Aug 25, 2013
Will Barnes
Edmonton, AB
Will Barnes   Edmonton, AB
Nice I think good conditions will help a lot on this one. I was always trying it when it was pretty hot so it would literally slice through my fingers. I'll be happy when this one goes down... Aug 28, 2013