Avg: 2.3 from 9 votes
|Page Views:||535 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Christian Prellwitz on Aug 23, 2013|
|Admins:||BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
DescriptionThis is an outstanding arete climb that is unfortunately marred by its location and landing.
Start standing in the muddy area at the base and reach high with your right hand to find a pinch that works for you. Then use an undercling pinch with your left hand. Paste a foot somewhere and attempt to pull off the ground, fighting a vicious barndoor that tends to swing you towards the Dust Boulder. If you manage to get yourself off the ground, bump the left hand to a good edge (or the top) and reach with your right for a good pinch where the lip and arete meet. Then figure out a way to mantel the slabby pedestal. Once standing on the pedestal, press on for a few tenuous moves, with complete disregard for your safety. Or perhaps more smartly, bail to the top of the nearby boulder.
Now the downsides:
The base of this climb is often submerged, but seems to dry out after a few weeks without rain, particularly in the late summer through fall.
Unfortunately, one of the difficulties of this climb is to avoid dabbing the Dust Boulder (particularly on the start) since it is in such close proximity.
Lastly, once you have attained the lip of the boulder, falling is basically not an option as you would likely fall directly onto the sharp arete of the boulder behind you. So you should feel pretty confident at the grade if you are going to attempt this line.
All of that being said, this climb is quite good and is very worth of your attention! If it's dry, climb it!!