Avg: 2.2 from 9 votes
|Page Views:||966 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Christian Prellwitz on Aug 23, 2013|
|Admins:||BDalhaus, Brad Fauteux, Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
SNECc is encouraging all climbers to use caution and judgement to ensure they do their part to limit the spread of the coronavirus. Please reference the guidelines provided by the local government, land manager, and LCOs and ensure you have contingency plans if you are unable to maintain social distancing at the area you planned to climb at. For further guidance please reference the guidelines for New England climbers, provided here:
Start standing in the muddy area at the base and reach high with your right hand to find a pinch that works for you. Then use an undercling pinch with your left hand. Paste a foot somewhere and attempt to pull off the ground, fighting a vicious barndoor that tends to swing you towards the Dust Boulder. If you manage to get yourself off the ground, bump the left hand to a good edge (or the top) and reach with your right for a good pinch where the lip and arete meet. Then figure out a way to mantel the slabby pedestal. Once standing on the pedestal, press on for a few tenuous moves, with complete disregard for your safety. Or perhaps more smartly, bail to the top of the nearby boulder.
Now the downsides:
The base of this climb is often submerged, but seems to dry out after a few weeks without rain, particularly in the late summer through fall.
Unfortunately, one of the difficulties of this climb is to avoid dabbing the Dust Boulder (particularly on the start) since it is in such close proximity.
Lastly, once you have attained the lip of the boulder, falling is basically not an option as you would likely fall directly onto the sharp arete of the boulder behind you. So you should feel pretty confident at the grade if you are going to attempt this line.
All of that being said, this climb is quite good and is very worth of your attention! If it's dry, climb it!!