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Routes in The VC

Bang Bang Bang S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Billy Cranks S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Blue Lukegoon NS S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bluecelee S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bucket Head S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Charlie Chang RS S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cream of sumyounguy S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Death Quiver S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drive On S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Foot Fist Way S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fortune Cookie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Going Commie S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Handie, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ho Chi Minh Rail S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hot Cock S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Huck Norris S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hucky Sucky 5.10 Bucky S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hung Fu RS S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Speak Crussian S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jean Claud Vandam! S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jungle Rot NS S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kegogi S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Khmer Rouge NS S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Love You Long Time S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Man China S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Map of Japan S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Me So Horny S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mobile Gorilla Force NS S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mock Duck RS S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mogo Chaji S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ninja Please S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Peace Talks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ride the Snake RS S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slicky Boy NS S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
So Gone Pocket Throw S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Soft Scrub RS S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Steep & Cheap S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Thin Red Line S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Trench Foot NS S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Well Hung Fu RS S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Whoreizontal S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Zipper Head S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mike Cronin
Page Views: 867 total · 14/month
Shared By: Wilson On The Drums on Aug 21, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Access Issue: Road open May 15- Dec 15 Details

Description

Fantastic route with good moves the whole way. Crux moves right off the bat getting past the first bolt (attentive belay/spot important) and a couple moves that make you think up higher around the 8th bolt. As the guidebook says "when in doubt go left." Perfect side pulls, pockets, and crimps. Get on it! (***watch out for a big chalk "x" around the 10th bolt, theres a good size wasp's nest in that pocket, there wasn't any activity Aug 2013 but keep an eye out***)

Location

this route is in the middle of the "DMZ" wall. when you get into the canyon with the duck wall on your left (going commie, mock duck) and the china wall on your right (man china, steep and cheap), keep walking for 2-3minutes and hug the right wall. there's some fun stones/cairns sticking out of the right wall in pockets around the "big bend" area. the dmx and hucky sucky are about 100 yards past those.

Protection

12 bolts (book says 13 but theres 12 now, looks like one has been moved/replaced) with open drop in anchors.

Photos

Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
  5.10b
Wilson On The Drums   Woodbury, MN
  5.10b
80 feet is a rough guess, at 12 bolts this is probably the longest route in VC, 60m is plenty. Aug 21, 2013

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