Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mike Cronin
Page Views: 903 total · 14/month
Shared By: Wilson On The Drums on Aug 21, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Road open May 15- Dec 15 Details

Description

Fantastic route with good moves the whole way. Crux moves right off the bat getting past the first bolt (attentive belay/spot important) and a couple moves that make you think up higher around the 8th bolt. As the guidebook says "when in doubt go left." Perfect side pulls, pockets, and crimps. Get on it! (***watch out for a big chalk "x" around the 10th bolt, theres a good size wasp's nest in that pocket, there wasn't any activity Aug 2013 but keep an eye out***)

Location

this route is in the middle of the "DMZ" wall. when you get into the canyon with the duck wall on your left (going commie, mock duck) and the china wall on your right (man china, steep and cheap), keep walking for 2-3minutes and hug the right wall. there's some fun stones/cairns sticking out of the right wall in pockets around the "big bend" area. the dmx and hucky sucky are about 100 yards past those.

Protection

12 bolts (book says 13 but theres 12 now, looks like one has been moved/replaced) with open drop in anchors.

Photos

Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
  5.10b
Wilson On The Drums   Woodbury, MN
  5.10b
80 feet is a rough guess, at 12 bolts this is probably the longest route in VC, 60m is plenty. Aug 21, 2013