Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Yellowjacket Boulder

Big Short, The V5 6C
Bottom Falls Out, The V3 6A
Cakewalk V2 5+
Cavaletti V0 4
Little One V7 7A+
Phillip Rivers V0-1 4+
Rock Shop V2 5+
Rose Trillium V6 7A
Short Sale V7 7A+
Trillium V5 6C
Trillium Right V5 6C
Trillium Sit V6 7A
Type: Boulder, 25 ft
FA: Knower, 8/13
Page Views: 712 total, 14/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Aug 21, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The Big Short is the most obvious, striking line on the tallest, steepest part of the Yellowjacket Boulder. The hardest moves are concentrated in the first 10 feet; however, the climbing on the upper wall remains relatively tough (mid 5.11) and is definitely heady. The Big Short is a tall problem; at Rumney, it probably would have been bolted.

Start in the scoop with your hands matched on a big sidepull/undercling. Make a move up to a pinch and figure out how to get your right hand in a high picket (crux). Surf out left to some cool crystally holds, and make deadpoint-style moves up the face until you reach a good ledge. Make sure to grab the left or center of the ledge, as the right side of the ledge devolves into a dubiously thin flake. The moves from the jug to the lip are just hard enough to keep your attention given the height.

In the fall of 2015, Tim Kemple Jr. added a sit start that clocks in at V8 or 9.

Protection

Multiple pads and spotters

Photos

Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
This last fall, Tim Kemple Jr. added a sit start to The Big Short (The Bigger Short?) at V8 or 9. Jan 11, 2017
This climb is impressive. I thought I would be excited to climb it, but had a change of heart standing underneath with a tiny pad (and tiny spotter).

Has anyone done a sit to this boulder? I figured out beta starting low in the corner, RH on a jug sidepull and LH on a cool pinch on the roof. I didn't succeed in sticking the move into the actual start of Big Short but I was close enough to know it's possible... well, possible for someone. May 25, 2015