Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mark Rolofson in Spring 2004 (12d A0). F.F.A.: Colby Rickard on August 10, 2013.
Page Views: 1,100 total · 17/month
Shared By: Mark Rolofson on Aug 20, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: State Park@SEMICOLON@ Fee Required. Details

Description

This climb ascends a two-tiered overhang via small holds. Climb 10 feet up a ramp corner & hand traverse left on a shelf, past the 1st bolt. Gain a good ledge & the 2nd bolt. Traverse right a couple moves under an overhang to a jug & clip 3rd bolt. Powerful moves on small edges lead to bigger edges over the lip. Traverse left, past 4th bolt, to a finger lock in a horizontal seam. The second crux steps over the first roof & reaches holds above the second roof. Move back right to last bolt. Tiny edges lead over the roof up the slab to the anchor.

I bolted this route in Spring 2004. Over the years, I have worked on this route, done all the moves, but never come close to redpointing it. I belayed Colby Rickard who redpointed this powerful route on his 6th attempt (2nd try on day 3).

Location

Start from the ground below the large ledge where "Hamster Kung Fu" starts.

Protection

6 bolts / 2 rings.

Photos

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Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
  5.13a
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
  5.13a
This route is really good for a short, bouldery route. It has just two hard moves, and I found a secret heel hook that made them very doable. It may be a bit soft for the grade given, fun route though! Apr 12, 2015
Mark Rolofson
  5.13b
Mark Rolofson  
  5.13b
Just two hard moves! I wish, but I do think the first crux has two moves that are more powerful than the rest of the route. The second crux seems pretty hard, too. Must be nice to be young & strong. My advice is you should stop wasting your time climbing 5.13s. There is a world of 5.14 & 5.15 climbs that you might not find so soft for the grade. I believe it's for you. Leave the 5.13b climbs for us old guys. This one feels hard from the 3rd bolt to the anchor. Good job sending! Apr 16, 2015
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
  5.13a
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
  5.13a
Either way, it's a cool route! I really liked the movement climbing over the first bulge. It's a great find, and I only wish it were longer. Apr 17, 2015
Mark Rolofson
  5.13b
Mark Rolofson  
  5.13b
I haven't redpointed this route either, so perhaps my opinion will change once I do. I did belay Colby on the FFA, & he didn't disagree with my suggested rating. It seems as hard as the handful of .13bs I have done & harder than any of numerous .13a routes. As a general rule, I don't rate or disagree with a climb's rating until I have sent it. Jun 2, 2015