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Weeping Rock Chimney's, Left Side

5.8+, Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 2.5 from 22 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Southwest Utah > Zion NP > Weeping Rock
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

Nice route with lots of varied crack climbing. First pitch follows double hand cracks that lead up and into the bottom of a long chimney. Pitch two is an exciting chimney that varies in width from tight to wide stemming and some hand cracks around chockstones and ends at a ledge. Pitch three has two options from the ledge, left is a 5.8 OW and right was easy stemming. Both options lead up to easier terrain with lots of loose rock until you reach a final short crux to top the route. Rap the route and take care not to get your ropes stuck on the way down.

Location

From the Weeping rock shuttle stop walk up the road a short distance till you are beneath the buttress that is home to this route on its left side. Follow trail up brushy slope till you can gain ledges that can be skirted over to the base.

Protection

Pro to 4.5 camalot

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Weeping Rock as seen from the road near the Weeping Rock shuttle stop. The short approach begins just left of a storm drain on the shoulder of the road. The start of the first pitch is marked by the yellow line.
[Hide Photo] Weeping Rock as seen from the road near the Weeping Rock shuttle stop. The short approach begins just left of a storm drain on the shoulder of the road. The start of the first pitch is marked by th…
Looking down from the anchor at the top of the pitch 1.
[Hide Photo] Looking down from the anchor at the top of the pitch 1.
The approach traverses to the left under a small rock band.
[Hide Photo] The approach traverses to the left under a small rock band.
Looking directly at the approach.
[Hide Photo] Looking directly at the approach.
The start of the first pitch of Weeping Rock Chimney's, Left Side. Start in the corner and move into the chimney. Excellent finger and hand jams all the way up. A bolted anchor is on the right face of the chimney near a large chockstone (not visible in the picture).
[Hide Photo] The start of the first pitch of Weeping Rock Chimney's, Left Side. Start in the corner and move into the chimney. Excellent finger and hand jams all the way up. A bolted anchor is on the right face…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Gordon Larsen
St. George, UT
[Hide Comment] The first pitch is a very enjoyable easy pitch. Good climb for the novice partner and it gets lots of shade once you are in the chimney (dual cracks to jam and protect), so climbing it on a hot day can be endured. Good anchor and stance in the chimney. Sep 7, 2014
Robert Dizzle
Fullerton, CA
[Hide Comment] Don't do what we did and have multiple parties on this climb. The potential for rock fall is almost absolute. Used a #5 on the second pitch but wasn't needed. There's a set of quick links in the bolts at the 3rd pitch belay that's not in the guide. Would recommend single pitch raps to avoid getting rope stuck, which happened to us. Also, if you continue past the 5.6 chimney at the beginning of the alternate 4th pitch, there's a notch you can go through to get a bird's eye view of the weeping wall. May 3, 2018
Loren Copp
Apple Valley, CA
  5.8 R
[Hide Comment] First pitch is money money! Recommended for novice trad climbers!! A single, shady, 30m pitch of chill 5.7 crack climbing.

The second pitch is a doosy. I don't recommend climbing the next two pitches unless you intend to summit via The Great Beyond. Pitch 2 goes straight up a dead vertical chimney. You will need to avoid the dubious microwave and refrigerator sized chockstones by climbing the chimney in it's purest style.

Pitch 3 is silly but does involve a cool 4"-5" offwidth at the top. There are two solid bolts on Pitch 3. They can also assist the descent, by keeping the ropes out of the piles and piles of loose rocks that are ready to kill your entire team. Apr 29, 2019