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Routes in Weeping Rock

Running on Fumes T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Weeping Rock Chimney's, Left Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,629 total · 27/month
Shared By: Wade Griffith on Aug 20, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Nice route with lots of varied crack climbing. First pitch follows double hand cracks that lead up and into the bottom of a long chimney. Pitch two is an exciting chimney that varies in width from tight to wide stemming and some hand cracks around chockstones and ends at a ledge. Pitch three has two options from the ledge, left is a 5.8 OW and right was easy stemming. Both options lead up to easier terrain with lots of loose rock until you reach a final short crux to top the route. Rap the route and take care not to get your ropes stuck on the way down.

Location

From the Weeping rock shuttle stop walk up the road a short distance till you are beneath the buttress that is home to this route on its left side. Follow trail up brushy slope till you can gain ledges that can be skirted over to the base.

Protection

Pro to 4.5 camalot

Photos

Gordon Larsen
St. George, UT
Gordon Larsen   St. George, UT
The first pitch is a very enjoyable easy pitch. Good climb for the novice partner and it gets lots of shade once you are in the chimney (dual cracks to jam and protect), so climbing it on a hot day can be endured. Good anchor and stance in the chimney. Sep 7, 2014
Don't do what we did and have multiple parties on this climb. The potential for rock fall is almost absolute. Used a #5 on the second pitch but wasn't needed. There's a set of quick links in the bolts at the 3rd pitch belay that's not in the guide. Would recommend single pitch raps to avoid getting rope stuck, which happened to us. Also, if you continue past the 5.6 chimney at the beginning of the alternate 4th pitch, there's a notch you can go through to get a bird's eye view of the weeping wall. May 3, 2018

More About Weeping Rock Chimney's, Left Side

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