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Routes in China Wall

Left Handed Compliment, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1
My Way or the Highway T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Andy Blair, Josh Charles, and Lori Weichers - mid 90's
Page Views: 489 total · 8/month
Shared By: Jared Spaulding on Aug 20, 2013
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


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Description

This climb starts on a hill and is just left of a large corner. Look for the small pine at the top of pitch one.

p.1 (5.9 70') Climb the splitter thin hands crack. Eventually move right and surmount a wide fist crack through a slight bulge. Continue up crack and belay at small stance with tree.

p.2 (5.7 160') Move west off the belay and then up a splitter crack that is just right of a huge chimney system. Continue up past some hollow but secure flakes and belay at comfy ledge in large chimney.

p.3 (5.5 140') Mostly 3rd class, but first climb unprotected squeeze from right side of ledge. Then up easy fifth to a ledge system. Belay at back of ledge above tree.

Descent: Walk off ledge to climber's right (3rd class)

Location

From the first trail crossing of New Fork River, look north. The route is on the lower cliff band and is visible from the vicinity of the river crossing. Hike straight up through boulders and aspen glades and open fields to reach base.

Protection

TCUs and Camalots to #4. I liked having a double set of .75-3 Camalots. Nuts.

Photos

Cameron Sumpter
Lander, WY
 
Cameron Sumpter   Lander, WY
 
Really fun route with great crack climbing! Jul 29, 2016

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