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Routes in Sciora Dafora (or Sciora di Fuori)

Sciora Dafora - Diretta Integrale T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 3000 ft, 25 pitches
FA: K. Simon, W. Weippert (1933)
Page Views: 826 total, 16/month
Shared By: Jan-Thijs Menger on Aug 20, 2013
Admins: Dan Flynn

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Description

Awesome climb! Lots of diversity, 6a+ slabmoves and a 100m handcrack, next to beautiful exposed ridgeclimbing. Good rock.

P1-9 <5b: straightforward. Climb straight up starting at the snowfield at a red arrow. Some bolts/pitons and bolted anchors.
P10 5c: bolted, slabclimbing underneath a roof with a fingercrack.
P11 5c+: chimneying and wide hands, great!
P12 5c: handcrack, easy for the grade.
P13 5c+: slab with some delicate climbing. Bolted, but runout. Last rappelstation.
P14 5a: nice climbing, easy to protect, some loose blocks.
p15 2a: traverse, rope drag.
P16 5c: one of the harder pitches, lots of pitons, beautiful crackclimbing. Keep to the left!
P17 5c+: crackclimbing, easy to protect. Keep to the right!
P18 6a+: beautiful delicate slabclimbing, bolted
P19 6c (5cA0): slabclimbing, with boltladder. We aided this pitch.
P20 6a: awesome climbing, cool undercling and some jamming. Short, with some pitons.
P21-22 <5b: follow the ridge, some slings. Exposed!
P23 3a: from belaystation, go to the left to a dihedral. We couldn't find the route, but it's al climbable.
P24 5c+: not sure about this one. I climbed too far to the right (over the ridge). But it felt like 5c.
P25-26 <4b: easy climbing to last anchor.
Some III-terrain to the summit.

Location

Approach: from the Sciora-hütte, an hour walking to the east. Walk to the snowfield underneath the Sciora Dafora, and walk up it. A red arrow marks the start of the route.

Getting down is the hard part. We didn't know about the rockfall, so had to call the Sciora-hütte. They told us this:

Recently (spring/summer 2013), rockfall on the W-side of the Scioretta has destroyed the descent via Torre Innominata as described in most guidebooks. The Sciora hut now advises to descend to Albigna via the Scioretta couloir. This descent is however tricky due to loose rock.
From the end of the route, descend by rappel in NE direction on slabby rock. You will now see the couloir through which to descend. It may be possible to reach it directly by rappel, otherwise ascend again in direction NW to the Scioretta untill you encounter fixed slings and a biner on the W side. Looking in W-direction you will see the Sciora hut. The gully leading down there is however prone to rockfall and although tempting, is apparently not advised. Rappel 8 m here (or downclimb) and you will see a tunnel heading down in E-direction (Possible bivouac, but windy). Through this tunnel you can reach the gully leading E to the Albigna hut. Follow this gully down in E-direction, until the gully splits into a wide, slabby gully facing NE, and a narrow, steep gully facing ESE. In the narrow gully there is a piton with a sling. We chose to descend through the narrow gully, which however is full of very loose rock, steep and partially covered in snow (august 2013). There are some slings and cordellettes to use for rappels, but check thoroughly as the rock here can be very loose. After a while the gully opens up in NE-direction to a wide and grassy slope. From there 3 gullies lead to to the Albigna valley. The most N of the three can be easily descended after a short rappel through the stream. From there 1,5 hrs through loose rock to the Albigna hut. In total the descend is long and takes at least 4-6 hours. Not to be underestimated.

Protection

Standard rack (we brought a double, came in handy sometimes). Mainly good anchors, back-ups sometimes needed.

Photos

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