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Routes in Scoglio delle Metamorfosi

Luna Nascente T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 1100 ft, 8 pitches
FA: A. Boscacci, G. Milani, M. Ghezzi (1978)
Page Views: 568 total, 11/month
Shared By: Jan-Thijs Menger on Aug 20, 2013
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Description

One of the classics in Val di Mello! Climb a beautiful cracksystem for over 700ft. The first pitch is the hardest, but can be aided.

P1 6b: One hard move through a fingercrack, to a slingbelay 20m
P2 6a+: Awesome pitch (plenty of pitons and fixed gear). Some chimney moves to a traverse under a roof (fingercrack). Climb around the roof and follow the beautiful natural line. Laybacking! 48m
P3 5c: Another great pitch, laybacking and jamming 48m.
P4 5b: The steepness of the line lessens, so the climbing gets easier. But is still amazing! 45m
P5 5b: Cool pitch through a wide crack, then a traverse to the left, to the otherside of the big flake. A #4 can come in handy for the second half of the pitch, otherwise unprotected (but easy) climbing to the anchor.
P6 5a: Follow the awesome crack to a three piton-anchor.
P7 III: easy (but unprotected) traverse over a slab, climb until you cut the left side of the roof above 40m
P8 5a: slabclimbing, one piton halfway up. First part is the rightleaning crack to the roof. Go left just before you hit the roof, and follow the easiest line to the top. 45m

Location

Route starts at the far right of the face. Look for fixed gear in the obvious fingercrack.
Walk down. Follow the trail to the top, ignore the first right (to some dubious rappels!). Scramble up the 'chimney' (III moves) and follow the trail down (cairns).

Protection

Standard rack. #4 optional for 5th pitch. Anchors need back-up. 7th/8th anchor are gear-anchors.
Some pitons/fixed gear in harder parts of the route.

Route is easy to protect, except for the last pitch, with some unprotected slabclimbing.

Photos

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