PRINT: Rock Climb Via Paulo Amedeo (Torrione Marcella formation ), Dolomites

Via Paulo Amedeo (Torrione Marcella formation )

5.8, Trad, Alpine, 1100 ft (333 m), 8 pitches,

Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
FA: M. Dibona, A. Nascé (2001)
International > Europe > Italy > Dolomites > Averau, Nuvolau… > Lastoni di Formin

Description

Beautiful climbing in bomber rock. Really exposed climbing. Easy start with sustained 5.7/5.8 climbing in the pitches. Technical (but good protected) cruxes in p 6/7.

Location

Approach: From Cortina d'Ampezzo, drivo to the paso di Giau-road. Park at the 6km mark. Walk into the field while keeping to the left until you find a trail which leads you to the gully. Follow the trail to the base of the westface.

Descend: Follow the cairns to the east (some easy downclimbing) until you find a trail. Follow this trail and descend through the scree-gully (to the north of the route).

Protection

Standard rack + slings. Fixed anchors. Some 4 pitons per pitch.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Torrione Marcella, different viewing angle.

Merrill displays some strength on top of the Paulo Amedeo.

Route summary

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT

It can be a bit confusing with all the names so if you are looking for this (Torrione Marcella peak) it is a sub-peak of the Lastoni di Formin formation - the left hand aspect of that large plateaus West Face. Many maps will not list this sub peak name but should have Croda da Lago (ridge just behind it to the East) and Lastoni di Formin formation written on them. Right next to this route (Paolo Amedeo)is a bolted route - the first 50 meters only have 2 bolts but the rest is well bolted. Be aware this other route (Nikibi) is 6b+ - about 5.11a - so if you are looking for the 5.8 it is traditional and to the right of the bolted line. Sep 9, 2014