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Routes in Lastoni di Formin

Evergreen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Love my Dogs (Spiz de Mondeval formation) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nikibi (Torrione Marcella formation) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
North West Buttress T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Re Artu (Spiz de Mondeval formation) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Via Paulo Amedeo (Torrione Marcella formation ) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1100 ft, 8 pitches
FA: M. Dibona, A. Nascé (2001)
Page Views: 478 total, 9/month
Shared By: Jan-Thijs Menger on Aug 18, 2013
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Beautiful climbing in bomber rock. Really exposed climbing. Easy start with sustained 5.7/5.8 climbing in the pitches. Technical (but good protected) cruxes in p 6/7.


Approach: From Cortina d'Ampezzo, drivo to the paso di Giau-road. Park at the 6km mark. Walk into the field while keeping to the left until you find a trail which leads you to the gully. Follow the trail to the base of the westface.

Descend: Follow the cairns to the east (some easy downclimbing) until you find a trail. Follow this trail and descend through the scree-gully (to the north of the route).


Standard rack + slings. Fixed anchors. Some 4 pitons per pitch.


Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
It can be a bit confusing with all the names so if you are looking for this (Torrione Marcella peak) it is a sub-peak of the Lastoni di Formin formation - the left hand aspect of that large plateaus West Face. Many maps will not list this sub peak name but should have Croda da Lago (ridge just behind it to the East) and Lastoni di Formin formation written on them. Right next to this route (Paolo Amedeo)is a bolted route - the first 50 meters only have 2 bolts but the rest is well bolted. Be aware this other route (Nikibi) is 6b+ - about 5.11a - so if you are looking for the 5.8 it is traditional and to the right of the bolted line. Sep 9, 2014