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Angora Grotto

5.11a, Trad, 95 ft (29 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 29 votes
FA: unknown
Washington > Central-W Casca… > Skykomish Valley > Index > Country Area > (c) The Country

Description

Climb the off-fingers to hand splitter crack up to the roof. Bolts protect the crux roof and the surprisingly fun climbing to the anchor just below the lone cedar.

Two 70m rappels to the ground, or use two 70 m ropes and set up a BIG Top Rope for the hordes at the base.

Location

From the top anchor of "Tunnel Vision", scramble easy up and right to an anchor at the base of a splitter off-fingers to hands crack.

Protection

Lots of QD's and some cams from .3 to .75.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Angora Grotto shown in orange. Tunnel Vision in pink.
[Hide Photo] Angora Grotto shown in orange. Tunnel Vision in pink.
Starting up the (bolted) crack on Angora. Bring .3-.75 gear if you'd rather ignore the bolts on this section.
[Hide Photo] Starting up the (bolted) crack on Angora. Bring .3-.75 gear if you'd rather ignore the bolts on this section.
Just above the crux on Angora Grotto.
[Hide Photo] Just above the crux on Angora Grotto.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
 
[Hide Comment] This is an enjoyable line packed with variety and well-protected, interesting moves. If it were at ground level, it would be every bit as popular as Cunning Stunt, if not more so. Aug 18, 2013
blakeherrington
[Hide Comment] The bolt protecting the roof move ( below climber's left foot in the photo) is visibly corroded. Other bolts on this thing may be bad as well - they have the same KONG hangers which lead to total failure under bodyweight on an UTW route or two.

There are adequate gear opportunities to lead this without worrying too much, but I wouldn't place much faith in the bolts themselves. Nov 10, 2013
Douglas Taylor
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] The bolts next to the splitter crack have been removed and old bolts above replaced with SS a couple years ago. Get on this awesome line. Apr 26, 2017
Max Wallner
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] If you can climb Tunnel Vision, you can do this one. I found the roof moves to be easier than tunnel vision, and for me the crux was several bolts after that, pulling/swinging onto a slopey ramp. The crack section has several jugs and large feet for rests. Oct 14, 2022
Vlad Alexandrov
Woodinville, WA
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Definitely felt easier than Tunnel Vision and probably not 5.11a by Index standards. Great pitch though and it would definitely be a shame to skip it if you're already up there. May 25, 2023