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Routes in Wheaties Boulder

Eat Your Wheaties V4-5 6B+
Full Grain V2 5+
Grand Finale, The V4 6B
Masochist, The V6 7A
Notchless (AKA Eddie + George) V3 6A
Phantom of Finesse V8 7B
Sadomasochist, The V8 7B
Top of the Notch V2 5+
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Type: Boulder, Alpine, 10 ft
FA: GP Salvo? Vanessa Compton?
Page Views: 970 total · 16/month
Shared By: Colin Rickert on Aug 16, 2013
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Same start as the Masochist (sit) but move slightly right after the first left hand slap to the crimp on the arete. Right hand then goes to a sid-pull/undercling (far right). After this heel hook your left foot and slap up to a flat vertical rail about a foot from the arete, work the feet up a bit and fire for the lip (either straight up or farther right) then top that bull out! Really great line with powerful, oppositional climbing. A great complementary route to "The Masochist" that is arguably a little less masochistic....

Location

Right next to the last switchback literally at the top of the notch....

Protection

Couple pads. One to cover the ground and one to cover the boulder behind you....

Photos

Colin Rickert
Ottawa, ON
 
Colin Rickert   Ottawa, ON
 
I got some feedback on this being on the harder side of V7 (7+) which I concur with, hence the slight upgrade. Jun 10, 2014
A key right hand broke recently. I repeated it a few days ago and it feels more like a v8 now. Jul 17, 2014
Colin Rickert
Ottawa, ON
 
Colin Rickert   Ottawa, ON
 
How recently and what hold? I sent it last summer and it felt like V7+ or V7/8. It really depends on the hold to deserve an upgrade to V8 but I am open to it.... Jul 19, 2014
eddysamson
  V9-
eddysamson  
  V9-
Don't know if it broke again but my friend climbed it yesterday and called it a 9/10

update: now I know why, he used stupid beta! Its totally an 8 Aug 12, 2017
Colin Rickert
Ottawa, ON
 
Colin Rickert   Ottawa, ON
 
I've uprated it to V8 for now. Would have to hop on it again to see if it warrants a further upgrade. It was already a stout V7(+) back in 2013 when I did it. However, my beta I believe makes it a bit easier than the way some people I see do it (provided the holds are still there). Sep 5, 2017
Troy Fauteux
Henniker NH
  V8
Troy Fauteux   Henniker NH
  V8
Great climb. I honestly thought it was a much better line than the Masochist. My friend and I climbed this last month and thought V8. Sep 5, 2017

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