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Routes in Wheaties Boulder

Eat Your Wheaties V4-5 6B+
Full Grain V2 5+
Grand Finale, The V4 6B
Masochist, The V6 7A
Notchless (AKA Eddie + George) V3 6A
Phantom of Finesse V8 7B
Sadomasochist, The V8 7B
Top of the Notch V2 5+
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Type: Boulder, Alpine, 10 ft
FA: GP Salvo? Vanessa Compton?
Page Views: 943 total · 16/month
Shared By: Colin Rickert on Aug 16, 2013
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

Same start as the Masochist (sit) but move slightly right after the first left hand slap to the crimp on the arete. Right hand then goes to a sid-pull/undercling (far right). After this heel hook your left foot and slap up to a flat vertical rail about a foot from the arete, work the feet up a bit and fire for the lip (either straight up or farther right) then top that bull out! Really great line with powerful, oppositional climbing. A great complementary route to "The Masochist" that is arguably a little less masochistic....

Location [Suggest Change]

Right next to the last switchback literally at the top of the notch....

Protection [Suggest Change]

Couple pads. One to cover the ground and one to cover the boulder behind you....

Photos

Colin Rickert
Ottawa, ON
 
Colin Rickert   Ottawa, ON
 
I got some feedback on this being on the harder side of V7 (7+) which I concur with, hence the slight upgrade. Jun 10, 2014
A key right hand broke recently. I repeated it a few days ago and it feels more like a v8 now. Jul 17, 2014
Colin Rickert
Ottawa, ON
 
Colin Rickert   Ottawa, ON
 
How recently and what hold? I sent it last summer and it felt like V7+ or V7/8. It really depends on the hold to deserve an upgrade to V8 but I am open to it.... Jul 19, 2014
eddysamson
  V9-
eddysamson  
  V9-
Don't know if it broke again but my friend climbed it yesterday and called it a 9/10

update: now I know why, he used stupid beta! Its totally an 8 Aug 12, 2017
Colin Rickert
Ottawa, ON
 
Colin Rickert   Ottawa, ON
 
I've uprated it to V8 for now. Would have to hop on it again to see if it warrants a further upgrade. It was already a stout V7(+) back in 2013 when I did it. However, my beta I believe makes it a bit easier than the way some people I see do it (provided the holds are still there). Sep 5, 2017
Troy Fauteux
Henniker NH
  V8
Troy Fauteux   Henniker NH
  V8
Great climb. I honestly thought it was a much better line than the Masochist. My friend and I climbed this last month and thought V8. Sep 5, 2017

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