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Routes in Old Country

Super Sharp Shooter V6+ 7A
Type: Boulder
FA: Sonnie Trotter?
Page Views: 83 total, 2/month
Shared By: Colin R on Aug 16, 2013
Admins: Dave Rone

You & This Route


1 Opinions

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Description

This is the premiere uber-classic line at Niagara Glen. Guidebook says V6 but beware, this problem routinely gives even strong climbers fits and the feet are very polished (took me a good 30+ attempts which is quite a bit for me at that grade). Start on on an undercling and move into some thin crimps at about chest height. After this, a long move to a sloping two finger pocket marks the crux which must be executed precisely and with great determination (hence the name). I've given it a V6+ grade given my experience on other problems of that grade. Feel free to disagree....

Location

See one of numerous topos available online such as:

topout.org/static/pdf/Niaga…

Protection

couple pads should be fine

Photos

Colin R
Ottawa, ON
 
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
 
Truth be told I agree with you but I know others who don't or who claim some magic beta exists that keeps it at V6 (which didn't work for me). V7 is what I would rate it elsewhere but I am trying to keep it in line with the local standard. Aug 18, 2013
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
V7
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
V7
I thought the V6 rating was kind of a joke. Cool problem though, whatever it's rated. Aug 18, 2013