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Birds of Paradise
5.10d,
Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 3.7 from 26
votes
FA: FRA 1979 D. Bower, R. McGown, R. Baker
Oregon
> Portland & The…
> Rocky Butte
> k. Breakfast Cracks
Description
A fantastic climb on the west (climber's right) side of the Breakfast Cracks wall. Start on a low-angle ramp and gain the finger crack with lots of pin scars. Follow the right-leaning crack until a bulge needs to be negotiated. Once above the bulge, there are some exceptional sidepulls and jugs that are very out of character for basalt. Make a leap of faith and continue going straight up the face making use of these ergonomic holds until reaching the anchor.
Location
West (climber's right) side of Breakfast Cracks. If starting at the top, look for an old Metolius rap hanger and button-head bolt. Back this up with gear in the adjacent cracks.
Protection
Full set of nuts & a set of small cams (C3s, ect.).
[Hide Photo] Birds of Paradise. The true start is the left side of the tree, skipping the tough stemming corner. The stemming corner variation gives a more direct line, greater length and full try hard value
[Hide Photo] For the anchors, take the trail along the cliffside left to these boulders. Step through and down. On the right, see an old buttonhead, piton & new bolt/hanger. You'll want a quadruple length sling…
[Hide Comment] Nobody knows for sure who chopped them. Anchors for other routes at Breakfast Cracks, and it appears at Toothpick Wall as well, have been removed over the years. No idea why the Metolius hanger was left, or the chain around the tree above Espresso, or other anchors accessible from the top at Silver Bullet...
The glue-in bolts were installed in holes that had already been drilled by someone else, who knows when.
The chopping was indeed senseless and sloppily done.
Jun 1, 2020
[Hide Comment] Somebody recently placed a bunch of low-quality hardware around the anchor alcove (some of it has already been chopped), including a bolt in the middle of the route and pitons in the crack. One of the pitons is hammered into a clutch finger jam and protrudes about 3". I'm going to be attempting to remove as much of this as possible. This is unacceptable.
If this comment finds whoever did this work, please get in touch with me. Maybe you had great intentions and just fell a little short in the execution.
EDIT 5/10: All of the hardware has been removed except for the angle piton at the anchor. All of the pitons came out with some hammering and funking (and scarring). I was able to chop most of the bolts except for two on the 5.9 alternative start, which had also been bolted. I hammered them down.
May 9, 2021
[Hide Comment] As of April 17, 2022, a 1/2" stainless steel bolt/hanger has been placed into an existing hole, above the 2 chopped bolts. There is still an old button-head bolt/hanger and rusty piton for a proper 3 piece anchor. You need a quad with some extra length for an equalized anchor with no rock rub - a 4x sling is good but a 3x caused rock rub
Apr 20, 2022
Avg: 3.7 from 26
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Redmond, WA
Chad Jul 14, 2017
The glue-in bolts were installed in holes that had already been drilled by someone else, who knows when.
The chopping was indeed senseless and sloppily done. Jun 1, 2020
If this comment finds whoever did this work, please get in touch with me. Maybe you had great intentions and just fell a little short in the execution.
EDIT 5/10: All of the hardware has been removed except for the angle piton at the anchor. All of the pitons came out with some hammering and funking (and scarring). I was able to chop most of the bolts except for two on the 5.9 alternative start, which had also been bolted. I hammered them down. May 9, 2021
Portland, OR