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Routes in Tunnel Crag

Broken Arrow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Connection, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fleet Feet of Summer S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hideaway, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hip Pocket Express S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ignorway S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Learning to Fly S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Paper Clip S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Running Boards S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Uncle Tom's Short Story S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yosemite Sam's Dinner Club Combo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 991 total · 17/month
Shared By: Andreas Pfander on Aug 12, 2013
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb up a to a big under cling with a horn on top. Surmount the roof and continue through the thinner and thinner holds to the top.

Location

Starts in the middle of the southeast face, at the left end of a platform created by a fallen tree.

Protection

13 bolts + ring anchor

Photos

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Guy Keesee
Moorpark, CA
  5.10d
Guy Keesee   Moorpark, CA
  5.10d
Nice climb, I think its 10D... good thing that someone fixed the bolts.

Do you know what the name of the climb to the right of this climb is? Starts at the same fallen log ledge, the crux is at the top... I think its 11a. Beautiful, interesting steep edging, on golden stone... bolts also fixed by some smart climber.

Best in the late afternoon, in summer. AM in the winter = sun. Feb 25, 2014
Kevin Mokracek
Burbank
 
Kevin Mokracek   Burbank
 
I did both of these climbs yesterday afternoon and agree with Guy, I think YSDCC is closer to 10d. We didnt have a guide when we did it so we had no idea what the grades were for any of the climbs but we both thought it was hard 5.10 or 5.11.

We did Running Boards next, that top section was tough, fun but tough. I think that grade is right on. Fun long climb almost exactly 100'.

I started to do the route right of Running Boards but getting to and clipping the 3rd bolt sets you up for a BAD fall. If you fall clipping the 3rd bolt or close to it you will hit a sloping ledge and probably deck unless your belayer starts running downhill. I don't know who put the route up or what the name is or what it's rated but it really needs a new bolt, otherwise it looks like it could have the potential to be a fun route. I'm not against run out routes but there really is no good reason why you should possibly deck clipping the 3rd bolt.

BTW, check out the new routes Jeff Constine and I put up across the street on the Sunshine Arete Buttress, about 30-50 yards left of the tunnel entrance. The Arete is 10b and the face to the left is 10a. Aug 20, 2015

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