Avg: 3 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Karl Rickson & Gene "Smitty" Husted (variation KR & Jean-Pierre Michaud)|
|Page Views:||821 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Charles Vernon on Aug 12, 2013|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
Kerry's description of this route confused us a little, mainly because he references a "direct start" that supposedly goes at 5.9, but he never describes the regular start. We did a direct start that seemed to match his description, except we didn't find 5.9 climbing. At any rate, the crack system is fairly obvious, and following your nose certainly works fine.
Pitch one ("direct start") begins up a short right-leaning, left-facing ramp, following by a grunty move into a short chimney formed by a large flake. Move ~30 feet right on the flake to pick up the crescent crack which leads to an uncomfortable belay beneath a bulge.
Pitch two pulls the bulge (rather than moving left underneath it) and then traverses left into the main crack, which is excellent moderate hands into sustained 5.8+ fingers. Easier climbing above leads to a belay with great views at the top of the cliff.
Partway up this pitch a diagonal crack shoots off left which is apparently a 5.7 variation and also looks pretty good.
The beginning of the so-called direct start is not anything worth seeking out. If you could figure out how to start higher, and do the whole thing in one pitch, that would be the way to go, as you could skip the uncomfortable hanging belay. You might be able to do this anyway, with a 70 meter rope.
It's also possible the direct start is further down gully, but we didn't see anything that matched the description.