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Bushmaster

5.7+, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 171 votes
FA: Matt Franklin, Kelley Gilleran, and Brad Johnson
California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Bowman/Emeralds > Emeralds > Benches > Dollar Store
Warning Access Issue: No overnight camping on PG&E property DetailsDrop down

Description

Good warm-up. Crux at the roof and the anchors.

Edit: Apparently the anchor crux is gone now :(

Location

Left most route on the wall.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with Mussey Hooks. Anchor is a bit close to the anchors of Price Check since they used to share this anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Angie Price surmounting the roof. Reachy for shorty.
[Hide Photo] Angie Price surmounting the roof. Reachy for shorty.
After pulling the roof.
[Hide Photo] After pulling the roof.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Great route, well bolted, little harder for short people. Mar 8, 2014
Matt Franklin
Sacramento, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Added chains to the anchor on 3/23/14. Mar 24, 2014
Kelley Gilleran
Meadow Vista
 
[Hide Comment] As of 3/15/15 all bolts are torqued down. To be clear these are wedge anchors and the nuts were loose not the bolts in the rock. This sometimes happens when the hanger is loaded from different directions and loosens the nut. If the loose nuts become a problem I will install nylon lock nuts. Mar 15, 2015
[Hide Comment] Awesome Kelly! Glad to hear and thanks for the explanation! Looking forward to getting out again soon:) Mar 17, 2015
Marcus McCoy
California
 
[Hide Comment] Enjoyable route. All hardware was A-Ok when I was there. I thought this was a better climb than Price check to its right. Two loose-ish pieces of rock still on route, after another warmup lap yesterday. The only one noteworthy is right at the top of the route, the 2nd to last "major" hold on the route, and the most obvious hold to use at this point. About a softball sized chunk that will not be there for much longer. Belayers beware. Mar 28, 2015
Jay Bird
Marin, CA
 
[Hide Comment] I thought it only felt 5.8 on the last move to the anchor. I didn't notice any loose rock but maybe I missed it. Apr 25, 2016
Matt Franklin
Sacramento, CA
 
[Hide Comment] I replaced the 3/8" with a 1//2" Powers last Sunday 05/21/17. Shout out to CRAGS for supplying the bolt! May 23, 2017
Nata
San Francisco
 
[Hide Comment] Fun warm-up! There are two large loose chunks, one about halfway up to the first bolt which seems to be really well wedged in and mostly moving side to side, the other very close to the anchor. Both were marked with chalk x's when I was there Saturday. Jun 27, 2017
Nick Andrew
Las Vegas, NV
 
[Hide Comment] You don't get many opportunities to climb a roof if you're a 5.7 climber, so jump on this fun little one! Also, tricky crux right before the anchor that is much tougher than the rest of the route, but you are right at the bolt so give it a go! Update: loose hold near the anchor marked with X is now gone. Jun 30, 2018
Matt Franklin
Sacramento, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Thanks Thue, we went out for the annual 'maintenance inspection' a week ago or so but the crag was already stuffed with folks so we moved on and asked folks there to post here if they found anything like this. I'll be back soon and will crank on it. May 6, 2019
Ansel Higgs
Graz
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Well bolted route for beginning leaders. At least one bolt's nut was loose Jul 11, 2019
[Hide Comment] One of the mussy hooks is only a hook now, the other is fine. The Price Check anchor is close enough if one does not feel comfortable with using the Bushmaster anchor, although it is quicklinks, and not mussy hooks. Nov 25, 2019
Jan Cas
Palo Alto, CA
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] Both mussy hooks are fine at the moment of this comment Jul 8, 2020
James Amort
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Great route for the grade! Bolts are right where you want them and super interesting moves for a 5.7! I can see why it's always the first route to fill up in the area. If you're new to leading and looking for a safe-feeling route, definitely give this one a try. Oct 13, 2021
Martin Kunz
Lafayette
 
[Hide Comment] One of the best 5.7 sport routes I have done Jul 3, 2022
[Hide Comment] 7/7/22 Haven't climbed outdoors in years and this was a great route to break back into it. Challenging with fear inducing spots but still safe. I found the roof intimidating but it went easily when I finally went for it. The anchor was quite tricky and I stood staring at it a long time. Didn't expect such a bouldery move. Ended up standing on one leg and flagging the other to get in position to clip to the anchor. Felt quite precarious for a 5.7+ but I do scare easily and in the end, it was a successful on-sight. Jul 10, 2022