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Routes in Five Mile Wall

Motor City T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stoned Man's Dream T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Town Without Pity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Karl Rickson and Chris Fischer, 1979
Page Views: 386 total, 7/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Aug 12, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Subject to the Bighorn Sheep restriction from January 30-April 1, according to Backcountry Rock Climbing in Southern Arizona Details

Description

I don't think this route is quite as good as the Backcountry guide 3 star rating suggests, but it's still well worth doing. The first pitch isn't bad. The second is very good, but maybe not one of the best on the mountain as I was hoping for. The third is a 5.4 blip.

Pitch one begins with face climbing to reach a nice, right-leaning corner with fun 5.9 liebacking. From the corner's end, easy face climbing leads to a long (at least 40 feet) left-ward traverse past a tiny tree and an old pin. This varies from walking to 5.8 slopers, with no pro on the last 20 feet.

Be sure to bring either a bolt kit and/or save a #3 friend/#2 camalot to back up the original 1/4" bolts at the belay. You basically have to do the route crux (the first move of the second pitch) in order to get the back-up piece in. Or you can aid off the bolts to avoid falling on them, which is what I did.

Pitch two is an obvious lead up the right-arcing dihedral, with a difficult crux off the belay but still sustained 5.9/10 climbing after that. Pro is generally good, but can be difficult to place. Take care in protecting the belay.

Pitch three is an easy lead up either of two corners to the top.

Location

Head down the south gully (see area description), hugging the wall. Town Without Pity is the first route you come to. The obvious feature is the attractive right-leaning, right-facing (rather than left-facing as shown on Kerry's topo) corner on pitch two. Pitch one begins below the right-most and most sharply defined of several flake systems, well to the right of the start of pitch two.

Protection

Standard rack with emphasis on smaller sizes. A 4 friend or equivalent is useful at one spot on each pitch, but is not essential.

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