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Black Slabbath

5.12a/b, Sport, 70 ft,  Avg: 3.1 from 10 votes
FA: Equipped by Joe Kinder, cleaning and FA by Kevin Wilkinson
Wyoming > Ten Sleep Canyon > Valhalla > Superratic Pillar

Description

This strangely appealing slabby face climb is difficult right off the ground. Very very thin climbing with surprisingly good clipping stances gets you to a little pocket (that feels like the biggest jug in the world) around bolt 5. Easier climbing including some dirty holds leads to the anchors.

Not the most comfortable belay from up in the insect corner (or from the slanted boulder). You might consider walking down a bit and belaying from below.

This route gets 12+ in the guidebook. I'm guessing 12b... maybe c.

Location

Immediately to the left of the warm-ups in the insect corner is a black, blank-looking, just less than vertical face above a slanted boulder.

Protection

Bring 7 draws +2 for anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Shoes sticking to the slanted boulder at the base of Black Slabbath
[Hide Photo] Shoes sticking to the slanted boulder at the base of Black Slabbath
Doing the spread eagle beta
[Hide Photo] Doing the spread eagle beta
Opening hard move
[Hide Photo] Opening hard move

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC
  5.12b/c
[Hide Comment] This has to be one of the best route names ever!!! Check out a video of me on the route to the tunes of my favorite Black Sabbath song: youtu.be/gBdEVkk2Hn0

Also, for me the moves on this route where harder than any moves on Center El Shinto, Walk the Dog or Superfly. Jul 1, 2018