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Black Slabbath
5.12b,
Sport, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 3.2 from 35
votes
FA: Equipped by Joe Kinder, cleaning and FA by Kevin Wilkinson
Wyoming
> Ten Sleep Canyon
> Valhalla
> L. Superratic Pillar
Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
This strangely appealing slabby face climb is difficult right off the ground. Very very thin climbing with surprisingly good clipping stances gets you to a little pocket (that feels like the biggest jug in the world) around bolt 5. Easier climbing including some dirty holds leads to the anchors.
Not the most comfortable belay from up in the insect corner (or from the slanted boulder). You might consider walking down a bit and belaying from below.
This route gets 12+ in the guidebook. I'm guessing 12b... maybe c.
Location
Immediately to the left of the warm-ups in the insect corner is a black, blank-looking, just less than vertical face above a slanted boulder.
Protection
Bring 7 draws +2 for anchors
Charlotte, NC
Also, for me the moves on this route where harder than any moves on Center El Shinto, Walk the Dog or Superfly. Jul 1, 2018
Grand Rapids, MI
The climbing is really nice but my only complaint is that it's too short. All the juice ends after a few bolts and then it's kinda over.
Great first 12b if you're looking for it though. Take em where you can get em. Slab climbers should be able to put this one down really quickly, and then move onto the even better and more fun Walk The Dog around the corner. Aug 5, 2023