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Routes in Haidhofer Schlossbergwand

Glatt und lieblich S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Janinas Traum S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
N├╝rnberger Weg S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wepsenweg S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: A. Gilgenrainer 1999
Page Views: 23 total · 0/month
Shared By: Shawn Heath on Aug 8, 2013
Admins: Shawn Heath

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Description

The Schwertner guidebook makes a funny comment about this that the name is an oxymoron: "Sleek and lovely", where "glatt" is used in climbing to describe a wall of sleek, solid rock, ie. with no holds.
The climb follows a crack on the right and holds and bolts on the left, so rack your draws to the left. The climb otherwise has a technical slab feel to it, but I've climbed other technical slabs which felt way harder than 8- and were rated 5.10, thus I gave this a 5.11a. The crux is at the 4th bolt.

Location

On the far right.

Protection

4 bolts + anchor. If you're heavier than your belayer and you fall at the second or the third bolts, you'll almost certainly deck. It's okay if your belayer can stay grounded. Having said that, clipping the 2nd bolt isn't a challenge and if you're tall, clipping the 3rd is also safe.

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