Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
Another obscurity in plain sight, this climbs the steep slab just left of Edgehogs and despite the "R" rating is more invigorating than dangerous except for some loose blocks on the 4th pitch.
P1) Start up a right-facing corner system then move left onto a slanting ramp which leads to sporty face with spaced protection which leads to a bolted belay atop a small ledge. (5.9 R)
P2) The crux pitch which tackles a thin seam with some fixed pins (micro-wires are helpful to supplement the fixed gear) and then moves sharply left to the left edge of a small roof system before cutting back right past a bolt to gain a two bolt semi-hanging belay.
P3) Straight into it off the belay to gain some fixed pins and then a bolt before heading up and right on somewhat dirty friction moves, with the hardest moves just before another bolt, (if you blow it here you'll go for a clean 40 footer) then move up and left into a shallow right-facing corner to reach another bolted belay. (5.10d PG/R)
P4) Romp up the easy right-facing corner system, taking care not to dislodge the loose blocks, and gain another bolted belay. (5.7 R)
P5) A testy pitch which moves up and left slightly to a suddenly very exposed position before tackling twin cracks (5.10) with tricky and intermittent protection to a stance belay on gear. Be advised that some decent protection can be found on this pitch but it tends to be spaced and you will still have to hang out to wiggle it in. (5.10 R)
P6) Up and left off the belay to skirt a roof on it's left side then back right along cracks to a belay on gear. (5.10a)
P7) A right-facing corner then weave you way through the usual Tahquitz overlaps, which appear harder than they actually are, and finish with progressively easier climbing. (5.8)
Gear to 2.5 inches including micro-wire and bolts; many slings can be helpful to cut down on rope drag
Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Pitch one was junk, climb P1 of Edge hogs or Whodunit, clip the first bolt of Edgehogs and then step down and traverse straight left to the belay for P2 of MMT.
After P2 it all gets kinda wonky, maybe this is best as a small variation to Edgehogs. Aug 7, 2017
P5 is indeed tricky! Up and left to a balancing step up to a pin, then traverse left to a jug, and up to a good belay. I split the pitch because I was worried about rope drag. Then there's some tricky business with scant pro, I went left then back right, having to run it out a bit. Finally traversing back right to a bolted belay on Edgehogs. Jul 5, 2020