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Routes in Jeff's World (Proper)

Action Satisfaction S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Advanced Petting S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Alpha Speed Project (OPEN PROJECT) S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Black Beta S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bloody Knuckles S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cathedral S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Chipmunk S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Conflict Resolution S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Contortion S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
FLR S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gargoyle S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gorilla S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Handicap Accessible S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Loud With The Lights Out S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nanook of The South (OPEN PROJECT) S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Nanook of the North S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Organical (OPEN PROJECT) S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Quiet With The Lights On S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raptor T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sit Clip S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squeeze Jelly S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Surfer Rosa S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wendigo, The S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Kurt Hager
Page Views: 594 total, 11/month
Shared By: Tyler on Aug 7, 2013
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

UPDATE April 2017: The FA went down, thanks to Kurt Hager's slow and steady transformation into The Wendigo. http://www.prairieghosts.com/wendigo.html
Keeping in mind that a 15' tall and dynamic flesh-eater sussed out the beta, the 5.13 rating is really anyone's guess.

From Kurt: "RawwwrblahrummbleeGrrrrr Rump Ruff."

UPDATE October 2016: All the moves go, thanks to Kurt Hager unleashing his Avatar beta. And I hear his project draws are still on the crux. Well, shoot, I guess that means he'll need to get back there ASAP.

Super proud line right in the middle of Jeff's World. Noah Ridge's first ever bolting job. Lower beginning bulge is extreme fun, with perfect incuts and rad movement. Huge, blank-looking section in the middle. Perhaps some radical all-points-off dyno? Someone will figure it out. PLEASE.

Location

Second route right of Gargoyle.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

KurtH
  5.13
KurtH  
  5.13
youtube.com/watch?v=Im9jJyT…

First ascent footage in the attached video.

I decided not to assign any letters to the 5.13 rating as the crux is among the most height dependent boulder problems I've done, and am cognizant that my 6'5" reach greatly assisted moving through the blank second shield. There be no intermediates. Once dialed, the boulder problem felt V7 to me but could see it being solid V9 for a shorter crusher.

I left two quality perma-draws below and above the crux: get on it and get rowdy!! Nothing to lose on such an incredible line. Apr 27, 2017
Tyler
 
Tyler  
 
As Kurt said, this comes down to the big boy/girl crux move. Huge. Accurate. So much tension required. If someone were say, mutant seizure strong, perhaps they could do some psycho hand foot match in order to make the move smaller. I feel that this crux is definitely around V9/10. The only person I've seen come remotely close is the wicked strong Tyler Thurmes. Someone needs to doooooo this beauty. Jul 22, 2016