[Hide Comment] So far this season(2014) I've seen three obvious hand holds broken on thief.

The first break was a crimp just below and to the left of the 5th bolt and only impacts the grade of the route if you're really short, and probably not much even then. There's still a crimp there, just a bit lower and angled slightly different.

The second was a crimp below the good two finger pocket you clip the 5th bolt from and doesn't change Thief at all. It did change my sequence on Gypsy, but didn't make it any harder, just a sequence tweak. There is nothing left here.

The third broke yesterday and was the point at the top of the good sidepull that you would use to clip the 6th bolt. This makes the upper crux a bit harder, but again only a tiny amount. The hold is a bit different, but only minorly.

Quite a few small feet have broken as well, but nothing critical. I anticipate a good right hand sidepull crimp between the 4th and 5th bolt will break as well as it sounds pretty hollow. So far I'd say all of the breakage is natural route clean up through traffic, and I'd guess with just a little bit more traffic the route will be immaculate.

So far, none of the breaks would impact the grade. May 22, 2014

[Hide Comment] Two more breaks last Friday, one hand and one foot, both small as well, but in aggregate with the rest of the breaks probably bump this into the 12d range. It is getting cleaner and cleaner though. Jun 30, 2014

[Hide Comment] Left crimp broke the other day three holds after the long rail (by the 4th bolt I think). Completely gone so the best beta we could find was heading out right on a series of crimps to the juggy horn, then traversing back left using the flake. Adds a few more moves but with a good rest. Pumpy Jul 13, 2014

[Hide Comment] Someone glued the hold back on. It probably climbs better with the hold back on, but where do you draw the line between cleaning and chipping/glueing. Aug 7, 2014

[Hide Comment] I was sad to see how visible the glue is. At least it wasn't the orange Hilti stuff...but still. Aug 7, 2014

[Hide Comment] The full circle of the evolution of a sport route is complete. 2 bolt variations, broken holds, glue, and grade debates. Was fun in 2001. Bummer for everyone late to the party. What ever happened to the guy we named the route after anyway...? Aug 7, 2014

[Hide Comment] That guy is a bum! He is all washed up. Living in a cave some where. Oct 13, 2014

[Hide Comment] Not a bad line. The mono was the highlight of the route. Sasha's new project! May 30, 2015

[Hide Comment] Hardware replaced 7/2020. Sep 15, 2020

[Hide Comment] Definitely a classic. Was surprised to arrive at the thief and see the whole thing equipped with brand new permadraws. Maybe there is a god and maybe he wants you to crimp like hell. Yeehaw! Jun 26, 2025