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Routes in The Mission Wall

Behind The Sun S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Billy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Billy the Kid S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Challenger S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Eye of the Beholder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Garrett's Revenge S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gneiss Roof (AKA: Nice Ride) T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Gneiss Route S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Ground Control to Gumby One S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
It's Not You, It's Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ride The Snake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rocketman S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Three Points of Contact S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Wild Child S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 320 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Greg Miller, Steve Johnson
Page Views: 2,068 total, 40/month
Shared By: gregsmiller on Aug 5, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route has some variety when it comes to the different styles of climbing on it. The first pitch was originally led on gear making it R/X

P1. Do bouldery moves off the ground, heading for a shallow, left-facing corner(crux) (bolt). Continue up the face to a small, black overhang. Pull over this and establish below the face, stepping left making thin moves. Climb up black ledgy terrain below roof. Climb up and right to a bolt in the roof and pull onto the ledge (crux). Continue up orange rock getting on lower angled rock to the last bolt on Wild Child, 5.10-, 140 feet. Best to use long runners on all bolts after the first crux to avoid rope drag.

  • *This pitch was originally led all on gear, it is now fully bolted. Bring plenty extendable runners. There are about 14 bolts total.

P2. Climb the first 7 bolts of Wild Child's third pitch. Once at the 7th bolt, look right for the pitch 3 anchor below dihedral. Traverse right along narrow ledge (5.easy) placing gear along the way. Long runners are helpful, 5.8, 70 feet. Cams: 0.75-#3 help protect the traverse to the anchor.

P3. Awesome stemming up past 5 bolts in the corner above, followed by a wild top out onto belay ledge. (The 5th bolt is in the overhang almost behind you, gives protection at your waist as you mantle and keeps rope away from flake), 5.10-, 50 feet.

P4. Climb the obvious, steep hand/offwidth crack above passing a large chockstone. Follow a thin crack above, stepping left and up the face. #5 & #6 (optional) Camalots are helpful, 5.10-, 60 feet.

Variation 1 to P4 - finish on the last pitch of Wild Child.

Variation 2 to P4 - climb the first 3 bolts on Wild Child's last pitch, but continue up and left up the corner, then stepping left at the chockstone and thin crack on E.O.B. (this skips the greasy, bird poop offwidth and allows you to climb the whole thing with single set of cams to #3).

Location

Start: begin just uphill from Wild Child and left of Challenger at an obvious V notch above an overhang.

Descent: rappel down Wild Child or walk off.

It is also possible to reach the 3rd pitch dihedral by climbing the first 3 pitches of Wild Child then rapping down to the anchor at the base of the dihedral.

Protection

P1. 14 bolts (?), many long runners, helps to extent all bolts starting at 5 up to the one in the roof.

P2. Many long runners, #0.75 - #3 Camalot.

P3. 5 quickdraws.

P4. SR-#4 optional #5.

One may also do P3 of Wild Child , and rap into p.3 of E.O.B if you only have quickdraws.
Greg Miller
  5.10
Greg Miller  
  5.10
Here is a good beta photo of EOB with surrounding routes. When I went back and bolted the first pitch, I followed the way I originally went while leading it on gear, hence the rope drag. There really wasn't to much rope drag while leading it on gear, perhaps because there wasn't much gear. In retrospect, I could have straightened the bolted line out on the part before the roof, though that rock looks a little more friable. It is possible to stop above the roof and belay off one bolt... OR bring some long runners. The third pitch is the best, you can rap in from Surrette ledge for that pitch, esp. if you're already up there for Wild Child. Cheers!

mountainproject.com/v/10828… Jun 28, 2016
Sarah Meiser
Boulder, Colorado
Sarah Meiser   Boulder, Colorado
No joke about using long runners on P1! Got on this by mistake thinking it was Wild Child and used only quickdraws. Rope drag stopped me dead in my tracks near the end of the pitch. Ended up bailing off a single bolt using all of our 70m rope. Still very dirty, but the climbing is fun. Jun 22, 2016