Avg: 2.2 from 13 votes
|Type:||Trad, 320 ft (97 m), 4 pitches|
|FA:||Greg Miller, Steve Johnson|
|Page Views:||3,609 total · 33/month|
|Shared By:||rocksnmysocks on Aug 5, 2013 · Updates|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
P1. Do bouldery moves off the ground, heading for a shallow, left-facing corner(crux) (bolt). Continue up the face to a small, black overhang. Pull over this and establish below the face, stepping left making thin moves. Climb up black ledgy terrain below roof. Climb up and right to a bolt in the roof and pull onto the ledge (crux). Continue up orange rock getting on lower angled rock to the last bolt on Wild Child, 5.10-, 140 feet. Best to use long runners on all bolts after the first crux to avoid rope drag.
**This pitch was originally led all on gear at 5.10 R/X, it is now fully bolted. Bring plenty extendable runners. There are about 14 bolts total.
P2. Climb the first 7 bolts of Wild Child's third pitch. Once at the 7th bolt, look right for the pitch 3 anchor below dihedral. Traverse right along narrow ledge (5.easy) placing gear along the way. Long runners are helpful, 5.8, 70 feet. Cams: 0.75-#3 help protect the traverse to the anchor.
P3. Awesome stemming up past 5 bolts in the corner above, followed by a wild top out onto belay ledge. (The 5th bolt is in the overhang almost behind you, gives protection at your waist as you mantle and keeps rope away from flake), 5.10-, 50 feet.
P4. Climb the obvious, steep hand/offwidth crack above passing a large chockstone. Follow a thin crack above, stepping left and up the face. #5 & #6 (optional) Camalots are helpful, 5.10-, 60 feet.
Variation 1 to P4 - finish on the last pitch of Wild Child.
Variation 2 to P4 - climb the first 3 bolts on Wild Child's last pitch, but continue up and left up the corner, then stepping left at the chockstone and thin crack on E.O.B. (this skips the greasy, bird poop offwidth and allows you to climb the whole thing with single set of cams to #3).
Descent: rappel down Wild Child or walk off.
It is also possible to reach the 3rd pitch dihedral by climbing the first 3 pitches of Wild Child then rapping down to the anchor at the base of the dihedral.
P2. Many long runners, #0.75 - #3 Camalot.
P3. 5 quickdraws.
P4. SR-#4 optional #5.
One may also do P3 of Wild Child , and rap into p.3 of E.O.B if you only have quickdraws.