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Routes in The Papoose

Centerfold T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hairpin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hanging Gardens T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Laid Back T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Limbo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mercury Vapour T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mushroom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Obsession T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pamplemousse T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Papoose One T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Survival Enhancement T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Transit of Venus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 895 total · 14/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Aug 4, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details


Yet another fun linkup on the Papoose!

P1 is Mecury Vapour. Start of the belay platform about 80' to the right of Centrefold. There was a fixed rope in 2013, though it is certainly not needed. Two bolts and gear will get you the anchors, which are annoying placed far higher than the ledge. Not sure why....

Crazy fun and LONG traverse for P2. Very sustained climbing at 5.9. You definitely want your second to be comfortable at the grade, though it is protected fine for leader and follower. Skip TWO sets of anchors and belay at the base of the corner.

Entering the corner was the crux of the pitch for me. Seemed 5.10a. Of course, my wife just stepped left and made it easier. I guess I missed that option. Good gear and relatively easy climbing (5.7/5.8) to the anchor.

Run up the slanting crack past gear and two bolts and eventually clip the final bolt on Centrefold. Gently pad left on the glacier polish up to the sloping small ledge, and then back right to the anchor. These whole final section is definitely run-out, just a heads up and be solid at 5.8/5.9 slab.


100' right of Centrefold.


Standard rack to #2 camalot. I placed a #3 a couple of times, though one could probably do without. I placed lots of offset nuts (medium size) on the p3 corner.


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mhagny Hagny  
Pitches 1 - 3 are amazing! Aug 23, 2018

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