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East LA

5.8, Trad, TR, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 7 votes
FA: unknown
New York > Gunks > Peterskill > c. LA Roof

Description

The route follows a vertical crack. You can avoid the first move by walking out onto the large boulder. When the crack ends, move maybe 6 feet left until you can mantle up onto the ledge (that is maybe 10' below the top). A step or two back to the right and you can top out. This short route might just possibly pack in more pumpy climbing than any other 5.8 at PK. TR VARIATION - Start 10 ft to the left and climb the arete to the end of the leftwards traverse. Terrific (5.10). OTHER VARIATION - Climb the first 15 ft as usual, then move right a few feet and climb the crack and right-facing flake, passing a laurel bush. Finish in a small notch-recess (5.7ish).

Location

Behind the dead hemlock tree that's just right of the huge "LA Roof" roof.

2016 update - the hemlock has been cut down. Look for the stump (and the cut tree lying on the ground).

Protection

Adequate gear if leading's your thing. Normal stuff up to #3 Camalot. But it can be rather "fiddly" to place.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The 5.7 variation goes up the prominent crack directly above the rotted, shredded stump on the ledge. The normal route goes up the thinner crack a few feet to the left.
[Hide Photo] The 5.7 variation goes up the prominent crack directly above the rotted, shredded stump on the ledge. The normal route goes up the thinner crack a few feet to the left.
East LA, 5.8
[Hide Photo] East LA, 5.8

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

The Weavers
High Falls NY
[Hide Comment] Great sustained climbing. Protection options are tricky down low and pumpy up top. One of my favorite Peterskill routes. Sep 11, 2021