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Routes in Duck Wall

Endless Skies S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Index Air Force T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Little Fire T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Making the little ducks quack T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Meadow and Spicer T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b V2-3 5+
Message to Love S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Planet Caravan T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sweets for Manuel T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Them T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Derek Pearson and Brian Ebert
Page Views: 1,884 total · 34/month
Shared By: derekpearson Pearson on Aug 3, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Walk up forested ledge towards Meadow and Spicer. Near the crest, about 30' from that route, cut left and down slightly on the obvious ledge.

P1: Walk the above ledge. From the end of the ledge go up to the base of a clean corner (5.5).

P2: Climb the clean, large left-facing corner. Sustained. Traverse out the roof (pumpy) to a rest. Then climb the wide crack with face holds on the main Duck Wall face. Some excitement as you approach the fixed anchor (5.10).

P3: Traverse right and up to the base of a roof band.

P4: Traverse left, just under the roof band (5.10d).

P5: Go up, trending right to the top. This pitch can be combined with P4.

Rap from here, or rap down Meadow and Spicer (top rap of the latter is a tree).

Location

Take the trail to Duck Wall. Where the trail meets the wall (at the large right-facing corner), trend right on a treed ledge system. The trail should have a fixed line near the start, and another one near the end (which goes up to Meadow and Spicer). The route starts just before this second fixed line.

Protection

Single rack to 3" doubles of BD sizes 1-3. You can place a 4" but a 3" will also work. Include a selection of nuts.

Photos

Hey guys thanks for your work on this route. The direct start i thought was 11b , and i did it by climbing the left leaning crack couple couple jams lead to a jug. On p2 there are the thin flakes that are in the crack in few different spots on the pitch. They are flexing and im concerned they might break. After turning the roof section the thin flakes there are cool pinches and would suck if they broke. I have a plan to fix them with epoxy. Have the material up there to do it, l just need to make the time. And i have two more hangers to put back on the pitch 4 traverse. Nov 5, 2017
Nate Redon
Seattle, WA
  5.10d
Nate Redon   Seattle, WA
  5.10d
I excavated the first pitch yesterday. It is now free of large loose blocks and the cracks are clean enough to take gear. The huge block in the final corner refused to move at all and is probably safe. I also added a direct start and will share more info on that soon. Nov 1, 2017
Lane Aasen
Seattle, WA
  5.10d
Lane Aasen   Seattle, WA
  5.10d
Climbed this today with Nate.

P3 is dirty and loose. There are some blocks that we wanted to remove, but decided that a beautiful Sunday afternoon was not the right time. Be careful on this pitch, especially on the first ledge.

The first two bolts on P4 are missing their hangers, but the last three are intact. There is some gear where the first two bolts once were, but I still wouldn't really want to fall on the traverse. Would be a lot nicer if those bolts had some hangers! Oct 29, 2017
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10d
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10d
we also skipped the 4th pitch, finished on Meadow Spicer. Aug 13, 2017
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Thanks for the suggestions Nate. Apr 4, 2016
Nate Redon
Seattle, WA
  5.10d
Nate Redon   Seattle, WA
  5.10d
Update: 3 of the bolts on P4 now have hangers on them, much safer than before!

- 2 raps with a 70m will get you down from the very top.
- P3 is dirty/chossy but climbable
- Link P4/P5

For a fun, mellow alternative, Do P1-P3 and then go out right from the belay and climb the second pitch of meadow and spicer to the top (look for bolts and a slabby crack). Apr 3, 2016
Lolo  
I only did p1 and p2. Followed p1, lead p2. P1 felt more like 5.7 to me. P2 was definitely 5.10, not easier than it looks. Cruxes are the Crack to get to the roof, and few moves before the anchors. I dealt with bad rope drag from not choosing my placements accordingly before the roof. Besides that, fun fun fun. Stoked to try it again. Feb 5, 2016
Ashort
Las Vegas, NV
Ashort   Las Vegas, NV
Got on this over the weekend. Only made it to the top of pitch 2 due to the heat baking us. Pitch 2 is super fun, and not as hard as it looks. Thanks Derek for your hard work putting this up, it's a gem. Hope to get up there and do the whole route when the temps come down, or wait til later in the day when it gets shade. Jul 20, 2015
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
I added the FA info.

But, do you want the route removed because P3 hasn't yet been done? I'm a little confused about who posted the route.

John had a great picture of it and some comments, but now that stuff has been deleted.

Right now, there is no info on the location, so it is a little confusing about whether or not to climb the route. Aug 6, 2013

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